So do you have DRY or DEHYDRATED skin? Did you know there's actually a
DIFFERENCE between the two? So, you have to know the appearance of what it looks
like so that you can actually treat it, and it's actually two opposite ways. So
if you're experiencing dry, flaky, itchy, scaly, sensitized skin, you may have dry
or dehydrated skin. So as we're getting into the cold Winter months, and we start
experiencing oscillating temperatures between the outside cold air and the
heater inside, which dries out the air as well as dehydrates your skin, then your
skin starts to experience more chapped, flaky, itchy skin conditions. So
dehydrated versus dry skin, it's often a misdiagnosed and misunderstood skin
condition. Hi, my name is Christy and I'm the owner of Go See Christy Beauty
Boutique, and I have been treating people with Acne, hyperpigmentation, helping to
fight or slow down aging, as well as other skin conditions like Eczema,
Psoriasis, and a number of other skin conditions for over 10 years in Southern
California. And we're going to talk about, once again, dry versus dehydrated skin
in the Winter time. So first we're going to talk about the top layer of the skin,
most commonly known as the Epidermis, but more specifically it's known as the
Stratum Corneum. Now the Stratum Corneum actually plays a key role in the
function, the health, and the maintenance of your skin. So I want you to picture a
brick wall. Okay? So a-, the individual bricks, that's going to represent the
Corneocytes, or the dead skin cells. The dead skin cells are actually a complex
integration of salts, Amino Acids, Urea, Lactic Acids. And this is referred to as
the "Natural Moisturizing Factor" or N.M.F. So the mortar or the cement in between
that holds those bricks together, that is the Intercellular Cement, Intercellular
Bond, or Intracellular Glue those are all used interchangeably. That cement, or that
mortar, is actually made up of Ceramides, Fatty Acids, as well as Cholesterol. So
the mortar, or basically, they essentially organize themselves into layers of the
skin, which creates a water-binding material for the skin. Now, when there is
a breakdown in that cement, so to speak, or it starts to break down, then the skin
loses its ability to hold on to its own moisture. Now Ceramides are natural
Lipids that holds the skin cells together.
Ceramides are actually vital for moisturized skin, so when there is a
breakdown in the Ceramides, then your skin will become dry, irritated, and
sensitized. Now I've actually mentioned this in a lot of my other videos, but
when your skin starts to lose its own moisture, lose-, you know, loses its
ability to hold on to its moisture, then you start to experience T.E.W.L. and that's
called "Trans-Epidermal Water Loss". This can lead to inflammation, and with
additional UV exposure, it could actually lead to the breakdown of the
Extracellular Matrix. Now without enough moisture the natural desquamation
process is interrupted. And if you haven't been watching my other videos,
DESQUAMATION as, is the speed at which the skin cell turns over, so skin cell
turnover rate. So when the desquamation rate is interrupted due to the lack of
moisture, then the result of the appearance of the skin just over-, overall
looks more aged. You get dry, you get flaky skin, dull-looking skin, more
sensitized skin, a decrease in elasticity, as well as just the overall
appearance of it just looks more DULL. So when you have a build-up of dead skin
cells, this not only traps the dirt and debris,
it actually DECREASES your skin's ability to absorb any anti-aging
ingredients, or Acne-fighting ingredients, or any other products that you apply
onto your face. So we're gonna start with MYTH #1 about dry and dehydrated
skin. And Myth #1 is: "I have dehydrated or dry skin because I don't
drink enough water." And that's not exactly true!
Yes, drinking water, how it actually helps the skin is when you drink a lot of
water, what immediately happens is about twenty-to-thirty minutes later you're
going to have to go to the bathroom. Your body will direct that water to the
Excretory System first before it even reaches the superficial layers of the
skin. And that is what it's designed to survive, so it's designed to flush out
all of your toxins, all of your metabolic waste. So how it helps the skin
indirectly is that it flushes out all of the waste so that you have better skin
tone. So if you've ever seen someone who is very sickly, they're not eating a lot,
they're not moving around a lot, they're not drinking water a lot, they will have
kind of this grayish-tinge undertone on their skin. And so drinking water flushes
out a lot of the waste before it even reaches the top layers of the skin, so
that is not necessarily true. So dehydrated skin is actually the result
more of EXTRINSIC factors more than intrinsic factors. So dehydrated skin is
actually the lack of water IN the skin and a stripped Acid Mantle. So here are
some of the extrinsic factors that cause dehydrated skin. So one, first of all, is
the lack of products that are on your skin to help draw moisture into
the skin, not using the products correctly, as well as environmental
factors, such as: heat, wind, dry air, so a lot of it has to do with your
environment. So the clinical appearance of dehydrated skin is crinkly and flaky
skin, but SHINY-looking skin. So it almost has a cellophane look to the skin. This
is especially obvious when a client has oily skin but it's also dehydrated. So
what happens is the oil gets trapped under that flaky and oily skin. Sometimes
you'll see it with clients who have been using Retin-A or they've done an acid
peel recently, they'll have really shiny, tight-looking skin but it's also kind of
crinkly. And that is a symptom of dehydrated skin. So if you'll notice that
when someone does an acid peel, when they're using Retin-A, or Retinoids, or
Glycolic Acid, or any type of product that helps them exfoliate a lot faster,
you are compromising the Lipid Barrier, which then draws out the moisture, which
then compromises the Ceramides, and so that's why you get that appearance of
the dehydrated skin. So before I get to the next myth, if this information is
really helping you and you find it educational, and it helps you further
your knowledge in skincare, I would just love it if you would hit the "LIKE" button
because that would tell me that this is the kind of information that you're
looking for. And if you haven't already, to please go ahead and hit the SUBSCRIBE
button and the notification bell to get notified of our newest videos. Okay, so on
to MYTH #2. So Myth #2, I hear a lot of times is: "Oh, I need a
really heavy night cream," or "I really need a heavy cream because my skin is
dry." Dehydrated skin actually does NOT need heavy cream, it needs WATER and not
oil. And I will be explaining to you the differences between the two. So heavier
creams that especially say that it is created for, or formulated for dry
skin, what it does to dehydrated skin is it actually sits on top of the
dehydrated skin and it doesn't add any additional moisture, which is water, into
the skin. So what this can do to dehydrated skin that wants water is it
can actually leave the skin feeling greasy and if you feel the actual
texture of your skin it doesn't feel like it has any moisture it just feels
like it's dry underneath and it's just kind of slippery. So that's when you know
you have dehydrated skin. So when your skin is dehydrated, how it needs moisture
is it needs it from WATER versus oil. And oil is occlusive so we're gonna talk
about the differences between OCCLUSIVES and HUMECTANTS. So for those of you out
there who have oily skin or breakout prone skin, I can already hear you guys
saying, "I don't need any moisturizers!" A lot of my Acne-prone clients who come in
here and I tell them your skin is dehydrated, it's producing too much oil,
which then feeds the bacteria that causes the Acne, they do NOT want to use
moisturizers. And so what is happening is that when you use Acne-fighting
ingredients, that actually absorbs a lot of the oil. So their skin starts to get
dry, dehydrated, flaky, and the-, and then that clears up the Acne. Well then, they
think, "Okay, my face is finally clear. I'm not gonna add any more moisturizers to
the skin." Well your skin needs water-based moisturizers versus
oil-based moisturizers. So the oil-based moisturizers, they're occlusive, they keep
moisture in and keep the moisture from evaporating. It does not add any moisture
to the skin. And when your skin is dehydrated, it needs water. So, for my Acne,
breakout-prone clients out there, as well as people who are listening to the video,
is, is that you DO need a moisturizer, you just need a WATER-based one, not an
oil-based one. Because when your skin is dehydrated, your skin will actually OVER-
produce oil to basically slow down its own moisture loss, and then it causes
more Acne. So for all my Acne clients out there and for people who are struggling
with oily skin or breakout-prone skin, this is why all of you shy away from
moisturizers because you think that it makes you break out. So yes, kind of, but
not really. So typically when you're using a oil
control or an Acne medicated products to control the Acne, it actually sucks
up all the oil because bacteria feeds off the Lipids or the oil on your skin.
And so when you typically put on lotions, creams, or oils, it makes you break out.
Because you-, when you're drying out your skin, you're over dehydrating your skin.
So you need to add water-based or binding humectants onto your skin,
because guess what, you guys? If you increase the moisture levels in your
skin, you actually produce LESS oil, which then results in LESS breakouts.
So you want to look for that, and so we're going to be talking about the
differences in just a moment. So remember, oil causes breakouts in
breakout-prone skin or oily-prone skin, and water increases the hydration. And so
when you hydrate your skin, you produce less oil. Dehydrated skin, or dehydration
to the skin actually causes more damage to the skin then dry skin ever will.
Now many people of you out there who think that you have "sensitive skin", you
actually have sensi-TIZED skin. Your skin is sensitized because your skin is
dehydrated and it's been dehydrated for an extended period of time. So you're you
don't have an Acid Mantle, it's stripped, and therefore you start experiencing the
dry, flaky, itchy, red, chapped skin. Now sensitization is actually one of the
WORST results of dehydrated skin because when you have dehydrated skin the
inflammation signals the METALLOPROTEINASES, otherwise known as M.M.P's,
to break down the existing Collagen. Which, what does that do? It actually
causes premature aging. So believe it or not, dehydrated skin actually INCREASES
premature aging of the skin almost more than anything else. So I keep talking
about humectants, how they draw moisture to the skin and in the skin, and occlusiv-,
occlusives actually keep the moisture in. I'm going to actually put links
in the description below for specific products so you can tell the difference
between the two. So the first one we're gonna talk about are HUMECTANTS. These
are some ingredients that you can look for in your products, and the higher they
are up in the ingredients list, the better it is. So, the first one is
Glycerin or Urea. So basically what that does is usually they are vegetable-based
humectants, and it draws moisture to the skin, and in the skin, and it actually
adds moisture in the skin cells as well. The next one is Sodium P.C.A. So if you see
this in your ingredients, it actually holds up to 250 TIMES its weight in
water. The next one is Lactic Acid. It is a gentle exfoliating acid. It's an A.H.A.
but it is a HYDROPHILIC acid, which means water loving. So it binds the moisture, or
binds the water into your skin. It also helps with exfoliating and treating
hyperpigmentation. And the BIG GUNS for humectants is of course Hyaluronic Acid
or otherwise known as Sodium Hyaluronate, and so that is also a moisture-binding
or water-binding molecule and it can hold up to a THOUSAND TIMES its weight
in water. So it is a BIG-TIME humectant. So it actually draws moisture from the
air or from products, binds it into your skin. Okay so the next category we're
going to talk about is OCCLUSIVES. So what occlusives do is they actually
lock in the moisture that the humectants have brought into your skin. So this is a
situation where you can use the two hand-in-hand. So your skin always needs the
humectants FIRST and then the occlusives on top of that. So we're going to talk
about occlusives. So, OOPS! I wanted to say that products that contain
occlusives, the best way to use that is right after you've gotten out of the
shower, make sure that you do NOT completely dry off. So, like, you can dry
off your, you know, your crotch area and your underarm area so that you don't get
yeast growth there, but you kind of just want to pat yourself dry, make sure your
skin is moist, and then from the steam and the heat, your skin is moist, your
pores are open, that's when the best time to put lotion or creams on because
that's going to seal in that water that's already on your skin. So that is
the best way to use occlusives. So whether it's after shower, after bath oil or
lotion. So once again, I do want to emphasize this, because this gets mixed
up with my clients and I see them all the time, so if you're only watching this
video one time you may get confu-, confused.
So occlusive agents, they do NOT add moisture to the skin. A lot of them don't
have, they have limited benefits, so they basically lock the moisture in your skin.
Now here are some occlusives that have NO benefit to the skin, and it, so these
are ones that people who are breakout-prone or oily skin should AVOID. And that
is: Petroleum, otherwise known as Petrolatum, Mineral Oil, and Lanolin. So
Lanolin, some people are, they get reactive to that. And Lanolin is actually
basically sheep sebum. So here are three occlusive agents that actually have some
benefits to your skin. So the first one is Sweet Almond Oil. It's high in an
anti-oxidant, which is Vitamin E. The second one is Jojoba Oil. So
Jojoba Oil is actually very close to the human sebum, so it actually gets into
your skin very easily. And it also contains essential Fatty Acids,
as well as some anti-oxidants. And the other one is Shea Butter. So Shea Butter
is extremely beneficial for dry skin without feeling greasy.
So what Shea Butter has is, it actually has essential Fatty Acids, Triglycerides,
and Vitamin A and E. And I actually, come to think of it, there is another one,
Niacinamide. So Niacinamide actually reduces breakouts, it actually increases
Ceramide and essential Fatty Acid production or levels, as well as reduces
T.E.W.L. So Niacinamide, in the retail arena, it's actually more touted as an
anti-aging agent but it actually is an occlusive agent as w-, as well, so it
helps reduce moisture loss. Okay, so here comes the PRO TIP. The PRO TIP is: So
Hyaluronic Acid serum is not only a humectant but it also acts as an
occlusive agent. And it NEVER breaks you out because, is, you, we make it in our own
bodies. So Hyaluronic Acid, as mentioned before, it can hold up to a THOUSAND
TIMES its weight in water. So it draws in moisture acting like a humectant, but
molecularly it's larger, so it doesn't really
penetrate the skin, and it actually not only quenches the thirst of the skin, so
to speak, but it also acts as an occlusive agent to seal in more moisture.
So if you can use a Hyaluronic Acid serum it would actually greatly make
your skin, increases your skin's ability to hold in the moisture without breaking
you out or making you feel greasy. So, the correct way to use a Hyaluronic Acid
serum is, and the more effective way to increase the absorption rate in the skin
is, after cleansing, you want to exfoliate, and exfoliating only at night preferably,
so you exfoliate, then on clean dry skin you add the serum, most serums you do
have to wait about 10 minutes to let it penetrate but the great thing about
Hyaluronic Acid is it is HYDROPHILIC, it loves water, and it is going to
be pH compatible to any of the products that you use. So while your skin is still
moist using the Hyaluronic Acid serum, use a toner, a spray toner, spray your
face with toner until it's completely saturated, and then again, while your face
is still wet, you're going to apply the occlusive agent, which is your
moisturizer, your lotion, or your cream. So if you don't really understand the order
and the correct way to use the products, then click the link up above and it will
link you to the correct way to use the products. So that is the one that you
would need to watch after this one.
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