Hello my friends, for sure you waited since long time for a new video on the Passat 35i
There is a simple reason for the low number of videos, the car is too good
But now, my little car has a problem, it's too warm in the summer, but too cold in the winter
We'll replace today the thermostat
This valve controls the water flux between the internal cooling circuit, where the temperature should be constant
When the temperature exceeds 87°C it opens and the water flows through the radiator
These thermostats have the tendency to stiff with time
In most cases they don't lock completely, this would lead soon to an engine damage
The water flux is reduced because the stroke is restricted
When the flux is reduced, the temperature will be too high in the summer, because too few hot water leaves the engine
In winter the situation is reversed, because the valve doesn't close anymore, too much cold water enter the engine
When the cooling liquid is out, it's a good idea to replace also the thermo switch
The switching points of the thermoswitch have a shift with the years
The problem of the 2E engine is, that the thermostat is located here where the waters hoses end
For having access, the power steering pump has to be dismounted
For removing the pump, the belt has to removed - I start by removing the belt cover
It has 3 bolts with an 8 mm head
Remove the 3 bolts
The second and third bolts are up here
The third screw I'm still searching, it's here in the edge
Remove the cover, it's only plugged in the front, just pull it out
The clamping bolt for the belt is here
Slackening it yet makes no sense, the pivot bolt is still locked
It is a bolt here at the slotted hole and on the other side of the pivot is another bolt
I start with the bolt here, it has a 13 mm head
Just slacken it, removing isn't necessary
The second bolt of the pivot here is on the other side, you see the head here
It has the exotic size of 16 mm
Slacken the upper bolt
Use a 22 mm on the adjusting bolt of the tensioner and slacken the clamping bolt
Just loosen it, use the 22 mm wrench to relax the belt
I'll reuse the belt, thus I mark the direction
Remove the belt
I let the pump at the console, more I'll remove the pump together with the console
The sheet for the clamping bolt may also remain at the engine, but the bolt has to be removed
The console has a bolt here, remove it
I just let the bolt in this position, and we'll see when the console is moving
This has been the 16 mm bolt of the pivot
The other bolt up belongs to the air condition, don't touch
And behind is the a bolt with 13 mm head for the console, slacken it
It's possible to access the bolt over the belt
And it's loose
The bolt is rather long, but you must remove it
Another bolt of the console is going up here to the block
Slacken it, it has a 13 mm head - you see the console comes free
This bolt is still in the thread, thus I can remove this bolt completely
This is the longest bolt
Put some support under the pump, the lines will give not much freedom
Remove the last bolt
When the bolt is out, the pump comes 1 cm down
The freedom of the pump is rather little, but I don't want to disconnect the hoses
The new oil would cost something
I'll remove the rigid lines from the mounts here, here and here
Slacken the bolt and remove it that the line will get freedom
Screw back the bolt and you don't lose it
Here we are free, now comes the other line
The head of the bolt has 10 mm and is behind here
This one is already loose
The bolts may be very rusty, all the splash water comes here
Remove the bolt, when it's out, the line becomes free
This bolt is stuck
For drilling out this bolt it would be necessary to disassemble half of the car
With some rust remover and some persuasion its possible to slacken the bolt
and remove it completely
The lines are loose
Now it's possible to lower the pump and we have access to the thermostat housing
When the pump and its console are off you see here the housing of the thermostat valve
It has 2 bolts with 10 mm head, slacken them carefully
They may be stuck and the cooling water will come out
The water is coming slowly out, I'll slacken the bolts more
and the water will flow faster
With one hand I hold the housing, with the other I remove the second bolt
Remove the cover in one move and be careful not to get wet
The thermostat is located here
Clean the holes of the bolts
Remaining water in these holes will cause the stuck bolts for the next repair
Insert the thermostat in this direction, it won't hold in this position, just place it like this
Put the gasket in the cover
Insert all together without tilting
It's a nice puzzle, put also the thermostat in the cover
When all fits and the cover freely turns, you are in position, that's it
Insert one bolt
Screw it in until the cover doesn't move anymore
Insert the second bolt
Before fastening the bolts I check with the finger nail if the flange is fitting
Fasten alternating the bolts carefully, the flange should go parallel to the block
Tilting would kill the gasket
Just fasten a little, we'll use a torque wrench
The final torque is 10 Nm, I'll apply it in 2 steps starting with 6 Nm
Then comes the final torque of 10 Nm, that's not much but it are only M6 bolts
10 Nm and 10 Nm and the thermostat is installed
Next we have to mount the pump, it has a long channel for the long bolt
When the first bolt is some turns in, the pump remains in place
With these 2 bolts, i.e. the very long bolt and the long bolt you screw the console in position
When the 2 lower bolts are in, you should try to insert the upper bolt
Up here in this channel comes the third bolt, I must push the console a little upwards to insert it
Fortunately all the bolts have a cone tip
Before having later on problems it's better to install also the adjusting bolt
The cogs point towards the notches - and it's in
Screw it in, the thread is rather long
Don't fasten the adjusting bolt must be still movable
Fasten the upper bolt
Fasten also the lower bolts by hand - and also this one
When the pump is back in position, it's possible to mount the lines
Like this it's okay
The threads are in these flaps, search the thread for the bolt
At Volkswagen they have a lot of time to invent such things
Because it was so nice, they used here the same construction
I don't know what they are thinking, when they build cars
Fasten the bolts only a little, that's fine
Best to use a 10 mm shallow offset wrench, but not everybody has it
The lines are in place, next I'll fasten the bolts of the pump
The torque for the bolts at the console is 25 Nm
and also 25 Nm for the upper bolt
The power steering pump, or say its console, is installed again
Next comes the belt, respect the old running direction, I marked it on the belt
Put it on the 3 pulleys
Relax the pump with the adjusting bolt completely
The belt is on, tension it with the adjusting bolt
Screw in the bolt, but the adjusting must be still movable
Now comes the special adjusting a la VW
You must tension the belt by applying 4 Nm at the 22 mm bolt
You see I have a torque wrench with scale, for an already worn belt we apply 4 Nm
4 Nm and lock the bolt of the tensioner
For fastening it with 25 Nm you must counter it
and 25 Nm
The bolt in the slot hole gets also 25 Nm
The bolt with the 16 mm head at the pivot gets 40 Nm
The pump is in - all is fine
Push the cover of the belt in the slot and it will snap in, and fasten it with the 3 bolts
Here come the screws
Fasten with great care the threads are in plastics
That's enough - the cover is installed
Under the car we are finished
When the cooling liquid is out, we can take the opportunity to replace the thermoswitch which controls the electric fans
At this model the switch is located on the top left side of the radiator
Pull the plug
With some wobbling it's possible to remove the plug, put it aside
You'll need a long 29 mm socket to remove the thermoswitch
It wasn't very tight
There will be only a little water coming put now
and we have it
It looks like this
I clean the surface from the rest of the gasket - like this it's fine
And then I screw in directly the new thermoswitch
Fasten it a little, torque will do next
With some fumbling it's possible to apply also the torque wrench
In the book of Etzold you find 35 Nm, but 25 like for other models of VW is also okay
and 25 Nm
The connector is keyed, there is only one orientation to plug it
Push the rubber over the socket to protect it against water
Perfect, done
I have still the original cooling liquid in my Passat, you can still buy it cheaper than the modern stuff
This is G11, it has to be mixed 60% water on 40% G11 for my region
I put 700 ml of the cooling liquid
Fill it slowly in
Add a good liter of water
Fill up until the Max. line
A little over Max isn't a problem, there is still a lot of air in the system
When being on Max, you knead the hoses and you'll hear the air
Some air bubbles come up and the level drops
After the kneading the level dropped about this, I filled up again
It's time for a test run, you may let the reservoir open, it bubbles better
During the run you must observe the water temperature
It's possible that at the thermostat is an air bubble and the engine overheats
In this case you stop the engine and wait, the bubble vanishes from alone
Close the lid when the engine is heating up
I run the engine until the fans started in the first stage, second isn't possible at this temperatures
Even under pressure the level is now below Min.
That's due to the air bubbles which are out now
I have still to wait some time before filling up
In the meantime I check the system for leaks
Here is fine, the cold weather has the advantage that you would see clouds at leaks
Down at the thermostat housings is also all tight
Meanwhile the engine cooled down, I open very carefully the lid
I fill up to Max and all is fine
Close the lid and the Passat can go back to road
Bye, bye, see you in the next video
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