Waching daily Dec 28 2018

Did you know that your 3d printer has a magic number and if you use that magic

number you can get better print quality I'll explain it all on today's Filament

Friday. This episode of filament friday is brought to you by these patreon

supporters. I know many people got new printers for Christmas or they're just

getting started with 3d printing and they want to do a lot of modifications

it's the fun part, I get it. But before you do any of that just learn how to use

your 3d printer and how it works with your slicer and with that you want to

know your magic number and use it in your slicer settings. So what is the

magic number? Well to understand it completely we first have to understand

how a stepper motor works so let me explain that and then I'll get deeper

into how you calculate the magic number. This is a diagram of a very basic

stepper motor. It's got four coils or four poles and when the center is

grounded and one of the coils is energized it's going to align the magnet

up inside with the coil and that's going to be one step. So if we then stop power

here and put power here it's gonna line up there so that's the next step so

if I do this where I energize each coil separately I can get four steps out of

this guy per revolution that's how a basic stepper motor works and on our

printers we typically have one point eight degree movement so these coils, there are

multiple coils to give us every one point eight degrees of alignment. So at

one point eight degrees that gives us 200 steps per revolution

and that's the number we're going to use to calculate the magic number because we

want to line up with these natural steps. Now where the stepper drivers come in is

they vary the voltage here and here between two coils and by the difference

of those two voltages you can get multiple steps and that's how you micro

step a stepper motor but we're not going to worry about this for the magic number.

We want to use these natural steps or the 200 steps per revolution.

So now that we generally understand that there's 200 natural steps in a stepper

motor how does that relate to the magic number? Well it all comes down to this

threaded rod. The threaded rod will lift the X carriage based on its pitch so on

the Creality machines or even this GEEETECH machine it lifts 8 millimeters per

one revolution so now that we know we want to stick to the natural steps or

200 steps per rotation, divide that 200 into the 8 millimeters we get zero point

zero four millimeters per natural step. That's the magic number! And we want to

stay on that magic number because then we're at the same position relative to

each step. Even if we're micro stepping we are

going to the same micro step every time so we're consistent in how we're moving

up and that gives you consistent results and much better print quality especially

on smaller prints where you're printing really fine detail. So now that we know

our magic number is zero point zero four we can do variations off of that for the

Z height so 0.08, 0.12, 0.16, 0.2, 0.24

0.28 and 0.32. You typically don't want to go more than 80 percent of your

nozzle so at a 0.4 nozzle, 0.32 is like the roughest you want to go,

that's pretty rough. So now let's compare our magic numbers or our magic layer

heights to what Cura offers in its stock

settings. From the drop-down menu they show 0.06 , 0.1, 0.15,

0.2, 0.3 and a couple of course settings I don't

recommend. 0.2 is the only one that fits within our magic number.

The 0.1 or fine setting should really be 0.12 to match our magic

number. Normal 0.16 extra-fine 0.08 and the extra fast 0.3 should

be like 0.28. So I made my own profile using a 0.12

that way I'm within my magic numbers and that's what I use for most

of my prints. But let's compare this. I'm gonna slice this Marvin keychain

at a 0.1, the stock setting and it says 42 minutes to print with a 20% fill. Now

I'm just gonna change the layer height to 0.12 because now I'm in my magic

number and it says 35 minutes to print. I saved 7 minutes on this print but what

about quality, are they the same? And here they are next to each other and frankly

I can't tell them apart. I do have some retraction settings to improve but I

can't tell them apart I had to mark them on the bottom. They

look identical to me yet the 0.12 printed 7 minutes faster than the 0.1 so

then I tried my calibration cube and again I couldn't tell a difference

between the two. They look identical until I put them under a microscope. Look

at the 0.1 layer height. You can see larger layers and then smaller layers

scattered throughout the print and it's slightly off. My eye couldn't pick this up

but it's obviously there because when I compare it to the 0.12 with the magic

number look at how smooth and even the layers are so this clearly gives you a

better print. So the magic numbers do work! So the magic numbers seem to work

although it's minor but you save time while getting the same print quality and

under the microscope it definitely showed a difference. And that magic

number 0.04 works for all the Creality machines that I have CR10, CR 10

mini, Ender 3 all the same and the GEEETECH a10, a20 they all have the same 0.04 so

just try that out tell me what you think see if you see a difference in your

prints. If you like what I'm doing here maybe check out some of the videos that

are popping up if you want to help support the channel patreon is one way

or just use the affiliate links in the description below to buy filament, parts,

whatever, it helps a lot and if nothing else just click on that CHEP logo and

subscribe I'll see you next time right here at Filment Friday

For more infomation >> Better Quality 3D Prints Using MAGIC NUMBERS on ENDER 3, CR-10, A10 - Duration: 6:19.

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Tobu - Return To The Wild - Piano Tutorial / Piano Cover - How To Play Return To The Wild On Piano - Duration: 3:24.

How to play Return To The Wild on the Piano / Keyboard

Subscribe for more Piano Tutorials!

For more infomation >> Tobu - Return To The Wild - Piano Tutorial / Piano Cover - How To Play Return To The Wild On Piano - Duration: 3:24.

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Rifle Scope Base Bedding with Devcon 10110: Savage 12FV Mile Rifle Part 6 - Duration: 27:54.

Howdy, guys and gals! I'm Kyle Broderick; welcome to the Social Reggressive! Today

we are continuing to -- our Savage 12 FV rifle. This is one that we're

going to test in a variety of scenarios, eventually launching out at a mile. This

is a 6.5 Creedmoor rifle; I've tested 6.5 Creedmoor with my friends out at a mile

before, and it is up to the task even if it just barely squeaks in there. But

we're gonna be launching at our big ol 30 by 40 gong just to see how reliably we

can get on target with something that's a little bit on the smaller side. But it

should still be able to do it anyway now we're gonna have some difficulties

getting a rifle like this to make impacts that far out we are going to

need some kind of base that we can put a scope on obviously but we're also going

to want as much elevation adjustment as we can possibly get both within the

scope and outside of it so for that reason we're gonna swap out this flat

base that I had sitting up here for just a little test shoot that I did a little

while back and we're gonna swap it out for this one this is a 20 MOA weaver

extended multi slot rail I'm going to put a link to it down in the description

below so you can just go straight there and buy it if you have one of these

rifles whether it's the 12 the 16 the 10 basically any of your savages the 11 I

believe they're all gonna fit this rail right here this is gonna sit on top very

neatly and like I mentioned make sure that you get the 20 MOA version if you

do intend on getting out to these longer distances if you go with the flat model

you are completely going to run out of turret adjustment unless you have some

kind of really massive scope and yeah you're definitely going to want whatever

a little extra bit of help that you can so putting this on is going to be pretty

straightforward no matter what kind of rifle setup you're going to have if

you're going to stick with your plastic stocks if you don't want to make many

changes to the rifle like we're gonna do you are going to need some kind of base

and I'm going to show you a recommended method for taking up some of the space

that might end up under this rail so that you can get

best accuracy and keep this rail from flexing this is called base bedding and

we're going to use this stuff right here this is DEFCON 10 110 you can use all

kinds of other epoxies that are similar to this even jb weld might work in

general this is considered one of the epoxies that is going to flex and stress

under temperature differences and barometric pressure differences the

least this one is not going to move much at all so we're actually going to be

using this stuff for the base and for betting some of the other things like

the action itself betting the the steel pillars in there and then I think we

will also be betting our bottom metal and this is going to get everything done

and now I should point out one other thing that we're gonna do to this rifle

we are going to swap out the rings that you see on here these are Weaver mediums

love the Weaver rings these little four hole Picatinny ones they're very

inexpensive I'll put a link down below to these as well but I do have an issue

with them being just a little bit too high I want to bring these down and get

it neatly in line with my eye I do have adjustment back here on the stock I do

have an adjustable cheek piece but it's not quite high enough and these are just

a little bit too high I want to get everything a little closer to the bore

so we're going to be using these right here before we really get going with the

actual steps of base bedding we're going to just check a couple of things first

I'm going to get the base it out here real quick okay so here's my base it

does have a little bit of a lip right here to catch on the the front of this

little section of the action just a little bit of an extra lug which is nice

and we're gonna see if this is too long in some cases I know this is with the

axis which has a long action not a short but this was actually a bit too long the

Bell was kind of knocking against the end of this rail so we're just gonna

check real quick on this one and see if that's going to be the case these are

the Weaver low rings these are highly recommended it's

kind of difficult to find a truly low ring in a 30 millimeter or anything like

that everybody kind of wants to get these a little bit higher up off the

rifle than I would like but these Weaver's meet the price point and they

meet the saddle height you can get some that are a little bit lower I think

there might be a vortex that's just a tiny bit lower maybe and then you have

some more expensive ones that really get quite down low but yeah for the price

tag can't beat these I think these were about 25 bucks for a pair let's take a

look I'm just gonna use some of the markings that I had from my previous

setup it was sitting right about there oh and that is awfully close the bell of

the scope is just barely burned me not touching the rail oh no I think it

actually is touching so yeah I'm gonna need to go in here and chop off these

last two rails especially since I'm not only going to

be running this scope with its somewhat smaller bell which is it this is a 42

millimeter objective over here I am going to be running some scopes with

bigger objectives like say a 50 and I run a bigger risk of knocking against

these little rail sections back here so I'm just gonna cut off those last two

alright let's just take a little sandpaper to that to get rid of some of

these little sharp bits yeah much better now it's time to evaluate the gaps this

surface right across here should be perfectly level on both sides neat

straight perfectly parallel but a lot of time that doesn't happen as we found

with that axis action and basically any action that you run into there's gonna

be some kind of warpage and who knows some of that may be in this rail right

here so what I'm going to do is just kind of put this roughly in

place and I'm gonna press down up here to start with

okay now this feels nice and tight this does not feel like there's any play at

all this is not moving let's try holding back here okay there's just a tiny

little bit of movement right here I can feel if I apply tension then press down

a little bit this one does move a slight amount so this surface is probably just

a little bit lower than this up here this is probably we're going to need to

put our epoxy and it's not gonna take much at all I could barely feel anything

at all so we're not gonna mix up much in this case if you feel that there is a

large gap between one of these two sides just mix up more epoxy than me you may

need to fill in a bit more gap at the front or the back now for surface prep I

want the epoxy to adhere to this material right here I do not want it to

adhere to this at all I want to be able to easily lift this on and off if I need

to at a later date so yeah this one needs to be rather it needs to be

cleaned it needs to be oiled up or you know greased up something like that to

keep the epoxy from sticking this is going to be the release agent on this

side and then this one we want as much grip as possible so what I'm gonna do is

I'm actually going to kind of rough up this side a little bit I have some 320

grit sandpaper right here I think this is 320 and I'm just going to try to tear

up the surface just a little bit to get the epoxy to adhere a little bit better

so all I'm using is a dowel a little bit of 320 oh no this is 150 okay

just tear up the surface a little bit

don't go too crazy you don't want to radically alter the dimensions of your

base just make it a little scarred little ugly and now for cleanup I don't

want there to be any metal residue I guess I won't actually hurt anything but

I definitely don't want any grease even from just fingerprints or anything like

that I'm sorry so I'm just taking some isopropyl alcohol rubbing that down that

should take care of any oils that I may have put there accidentally and what the

heck just to make sure that the rifle is clean I'll run some alcohol on here too

and now it's time for the application of the release agent we want a very thin

layer of some kind of grease or other release material this one is very well

known shoe polish I'm happy to have this this time I'll be using this this tends

to do a really good job back here I do have some high-temperature bearing

grease any kind of grease will work people have sprayed Pam on their guns

all kinds of things anything that's gonna be oily and prevent the epoxy from

sticking to the wrong material this one gets a little bit of a thicker coat and

this one works out really well and now here's kind of a big deal you want some

kind of release agent to end up inside these tapped holes these are these

little screw holes right here you do not want to epoxy the screws in place that

would be a tragedy

all right I'm gonna go over this with just my bare finger to kind of get a

feel for how this is going

let's take the bolt out I'm going to run just a little bit of grease down inside

these holes and poke it around with a toothpick I want to make absolutely sure

and no epoxy makes it down inside this hole one last item to grease up before

we get going with the epoxy that's the threads of the screws themselves put

some kind of oil some kind of grease all over these screws because you don't want

any bit of this to seize up now it's time to mix the epoxy

this is DEFCON 10 110 we're going to have 45 minutes of total time with this

before we need to stop touching it so I need to make sure that everything is

squared away we have the release agent on the action we have some release agent

on the screws this is roughed up and cleaned I know my front from my back so

there's the front there's the back and I'm not going to need very much this is

mixed by volume two and a half to one so this is my one right here this is the

hardener so let's do just a bit more than I think I'll need popsicle sticks

or some of those hobby sticks you can pick up these are really handy

oh my epoxy is getting a little bit old not as flexible as it used to be you can

measure this by weight or by volume whatever you feel like it is a little

cold out here so that might explain why this is moving pretty stiffly alright

there it is this is just a lid from an oatmeal container it's great to save

these sorts of things like yogurt lids things like that these are really handy

and there we have it it is a little bit thick this is not the optimal

temperature for working this but texture ain't too bad

feels like extra thick peanut butter just to make sure that's my front that's

my back and I am NOT going to need anywhere near the amount that I've made

here that's alright better to have too much than too little

alright so now I'm going through and removing excess alright that's looking

pretty good the only thing I really need to do here

is grab a toothpick and remove some of this from the edges of the holes and I

will need to do this again once it's in place because some of this will squish

into those holes you can use play-doh beforehand to try to mask off some of

these holes before you put the screws in

I'm just gonna manually clean it before everything is finally assembled ok so we

have full coverage all the way around a little a little too much a little bit

more than what we need and that's perfect we're going to screw this down

it's gonna squish out the sides and then we'll scrape it away alright here goes

okay that is roughly lined up right there on some of these bases like I

think on the egw some of these screws are not the same length so make sure

that your short screws go in the front long screws go on the back this one they

are equal all the way around so I can just drop them in the holes actually

glow before they before I do that let me get a a magnet real quick there we go I

need to make absolutely sure that these holes are free of epoxy

okay yeah that looks good

okay I'm just gonna get barely finger tight

Snug them down just a little bit I can see some of the epoxy squeezing out the

sides just a little bit as I do this that's perfect now it's time to put a

little tension on these this one at the back seemed to be the most stable there

seemed to be a little bit of a drop right here now I have a choice

I can torque down these front ones and not do these at the back quite so much

that's going to make sure that what I want overalls for everything to be

perfectly level so if there is a little bit of a gap I don't want to be

tensioning everything down and maybe putting a bow in this this base so I

have a choice I can tension these down and then just do these a little bit to

you know try to get the epoxy to fill up that gap right there or I can go the

other way around I think since this one seemed to be the most consistent back

here I'm gonna go ahead and torque these down and then do these almost all the

way so yeah this is the Weaver torque wrench I've got this set up for 20 inch

pounds all right now watch the gap right here watch what happens you can see the

epoxy squeezing out we're gonna have to clean this up and I'm gonna go ahead and

bring these down just a little bit all right these two are torqued

and I'm not quite gonna torque these down I'm just gonna Snug them a little

bit cuz right now we may be getting some upward pressure from that epoxy so I do

want some tension down there but just not all the way down all right I'm gonna

call that good now we only have a little bit of time left with workable time on

the epoxy we're gonna get rid of this excess and that's pretty easily done

with our squared off popsicle sticks I'm just going to slide along the edge here

any kind of straightedge that you have you can clean up afterward you can use a

screwdriver or maybe a steel ruler that kind of thing

I've removed the bulk of it with this stick but I'm gonna see how much I can

get up with a cloth here I want to get all of this off my action if I can and I

think we're good to go now we just need to wait 24 hours we'll

see how that release agent works we'll see if this pops off really neatly 24

hours have passed and we'll see how our cake is baked if everything went right

the epoxy is not adhering to the action it is adhering over here we shouldn't

have any bubbles or anything and this should just knock right off I'm just

going to use an old magnet to get the screws out and now I'm going to use some

precision gunsmithing tools to knock this loose I'm just using this little

block of wood to help protect the finish let's see how this goes and you can see

that I have a towel down back here to hopefully catch this parts tend to fly

after you release them oh look at the Hat Oh picture-perfect there lovely oh

yeah yeah that's beautiful that came out exactly right alright so we have a thin

layer of epoxy taking up any kind of gaps that there might have been this

should be very repeatable if we need to ever take this off put it back on and

heck we didn't even really need to take this off anyway if you wanted to just go

ahead and snug this down put some Loctite on the screws and make sure

there's never moved yeah you could do that but there are times when you need

to remove these parts so this was a good test right here this came out just great

now is the time to take a look at your edges see if there's any little chips

that need to be peeled away actually I'm really happy with this one this is very

clean all the way around I'm really gonna mess with this but if you

have anything that's kind of hanging up at the edges

yeah and now's a good time to just get a little popsicle stick or something and

chip it off before I reinstall the base I'm going to check around here and see

if there's any extra epoxy and chip it away if necessary I can feel just tiny

tiny little specks right here and actually you can see that they're kind

of peeling up under my fingernail so I'm just gonna take this little wooden stick

it's just like a little popsicle stick I'll just scrape those edges to get any

residue off and now to remove any excess shoe polish that we had under the base

when we installed it now I'll be honest with you guys a lot of this really is

not entirely necessary if you just take your base apply it you know just torque

it down it's really going to work out great for you I really don't see that

much of a change you know based on whether you have this bedded or not that

this will aid in just total repeatability again if you have to take

this off put it back on and then this is also going to just provide that that

little extra edge to make sure that nothing is bending or flexing everything

is perfectly flat and straight and that you can always rely on just everything

lining up perfectly on your scope that your rings aren't cockeyed a little bit

and maybe damaging your scope or anything like that again I'm really not

overly concerned about anything like that but if we're gonna take the time to

put together a rifle that is going to be accurate enough to hit that steel gong

out at a mile and something that I can rely on on that first shot to hit a

coyote at long range or something I might as well take every little step

that I can to ensure that each shot is just perfectly precise I can count on

shot number one shot number ten whatever it is and I

don't it's like I just have all the variables removed everything is a

constant it's time to install the base so it's time to break out the Loctite

the screws the torque wrench and all that good stuff but first off I'm going

to put a little oil under the base this is one of those areas where water tends

to sneak in if you're out on a rainy day or even if it's just moist or whatever

this is going to accumulate water under the base and you may one day take it off

and find a whole bunch of rust under here so I'm going to make sure that we

have something that's going to stick around the oil that I'm going to be

using I'm testing out the new Spartan accuracy oil this is from modern Spartan

systems this is some stuff that has some pretty big claims about it about being

able to actually increase the accuracy of the rifle if you put it down the bore

all kinds of things and it's supposed to really reduce friction on some moving

parts so actually I'm going to use this oil on a whole bunch of different parts

on this rifle and some semi automatics that I've been testing out and I'll be

testing out here in the future so we're gonna see how this stuff actually

performs but this should be a good long-lasting oil that will sit under

here and it shouldn't run off or evaporate or anything over time as this

just kind of sits with the base stationary this is supposed to really

get down into the pores of the metal and remain there for long periods of time so

we'll we'll see how it does over time

obviously that's a lot we don't want to have a puddle waiting under there there

we go a nice decent coat oh that feels nice and snug without actually even

being screwed down or anything this feels really nice and tight like it's

just not gonna wobble around and that feels good

alright as usual we're gonna torque this down to the 20 pound inches that are

recommended by Weaver but of course we're also gonna use some Loctite here

to keep this from moving around if any of you ever had a base come loose I sure

have I have these finger tight and now it's time to put the torque down just

remember that as you tighten one down the other one may relatively loosen up

so we're going to go kind of in order watching these and making sure that

nothing seems to have backed out alright so we'll take this first one okay

there's 20 pound inches let's do this guy back here

and start all over again and there it is that's a lot of work to put in and a lot

of time on just one part but I think that it will pay off in the end your

scope is going to like it better the whole system overall is going to be much

happier so next up we're going to mount the Rings and mount the scope and I'm

going to show you some of the tricks that I use to figure out what your

perfect eye distance is how you should mount your scope and then we'll take a

look at a couple of different methods for getting the scope level on the rifle

because at the distances that we'll be addressing, level is extremely important if

you're canted any you can really get into some major issues where you're

going to miss your shot all right let's get into that in the next video thanks a

bunch you guys thanks a lot to the patreon supporters that have made this

whole series possible thanks to the Sportsman's Guide at the 338 Lapua

Magnum level and Peter at the 300 Win Mag level we have a lot more going into

this rifle here in the future to make sure that it's perfectly squared away

then we get to have some fun with it I'll see you guys around thanks for

watching if you like this video be sure to LIKE share and most importantly

subscribe even if you didn't like this particular content go ahead and

subscribe there's probably something coming that's more up your alley check

out this playlist right here this is going to have videos in a similar vein

to what you just watched these two videos we cherry picked for you and

finally the social regressive is on patreon so you can become a patron of

the destructive arts and earn some goodies while helping us to provide high

quality videos just by kicking us a few bucks a month thanks a bunch for your

patronage

For more infomation >> Rifle Scope Base Bedding with Devcon 10110: Savage 12FV Mile Rifle Part 6 - Duration: 27:54.

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Ending These Wars Should Make You Happy! - Duration: 9:17.

Well, I think this is indeed a very, very important development, and it is what President

Trump had promised in the election in 2016, and it's one of the major reasons why he was

elected to become President.

And now that he has basically successfully, at least pushed back, to a certain extent,

the whole Russiagate and Mueller illegal investigation, obviously, he feels in command enough to actually

come through on his promise.

So, he announced that all of U.S. troops will be withdrawn from Syria.

There was a huge, hysterical reaction by the neo-liberal establishment of the West, but

also from the left.

So the absolutely erroneous thing is that all the people who supposedly are anti-war,

now say that the United States should keep illegally occupying Syria, when President

Trump is actually involved in a very reasonable and very thoughtful process of pulling out

of this situation.

Now, first of all, Maria Zakharova, the spokeswoman for the Russian Foreign Ministry, said who

should fill the vacuum after the United States pullout?

The natural thing is the Syrian government and the Syrian people, and given the fact

that there is now a constitutional process under way with the perspective of elections,

this is actually absolutely the best thing which could happen.

And the question of what will happen with the remaining open issues, like the Kurdish

problem, there are negotiations between the Trump Administration and Russia on the one

side, and Turkey and the United States on the other side.

And therefore, there is a Turkish delegation going to Russia in the next days; there were

negotiations between the United States and Turkey, a U.S. military delegation will go

to Turkey in the next days.

So, all of this is up to be negotiated, and a settlement to be found.

And obviously, this is a very, very important flank, because it means that the United States

is ending for sure -- at least that's Trump's intention and what he's acting on -- to end

U.S. foreign wars, to end what has cost $7 trillion in the last 15 or 17 years, and the

U.S. organization, Veterans for Peace is one of the few organizations which came out in

a full endorsement, saying that this is absolutely important that the

U.S. policy of being involved in foreign wars is ending, they welcomed that.

And also a number of Republican congressmen came out in support of Trump, for example,

Jimmy Duncan, who said that this is absolutely the right thing, because these foreign wars

have cost many, many innocent lives, they killed Americans, they created enemies for

the United States, they cost trillions and trillions of dollars, and this is exactly

what should happen.

I think anybody in their right mind who does not see the benefit of bringing peace back

to Syria by ending foreign occupation, and all the arguments that "this will help the

Russians," "this will help the Iranians," it's all not true: Because both the Russians

and Iranians have so many other things to take care of, that they will withdraw from

Syria and have no intention to stay there permanently, contrary to the media line.

Trump, today, sent out a very interesting tweet, basically saying that Saudi Arabia

will pay for the reconstruction of Syria.

Now, that, we have to see.

But there is obviously a much larger scheme being worked on.

Because a couple of days ago, the Afghanistan representative from the United States, Zalmay

Khalilzad, participated in a conference in the United Arab Emirates, and there he announced

that the United States will also withdraw completely from Afghanistan, that

they will not keep permanent bases there, and that the only way to bring peace and stability

to Afghanistan is by a political settlement, including negotiations with the Taliban.

At the same time, the Pakistani foreign minister was in Beijing and met with Wang Yi, and China

is also encouraging Pakistan to be part of this solution with the Taliban.

And at the same time, similar moves are happening with Iran.

Now, I think this is all very significant, because -- it's still in process -- but I

think what we are seeing in front of our eyes, is the emergence of a Peace of Westphalia

approach for the Middle East.

And if you please remember, the Peace of Westphalia was not immediately a vision for peace to

end what was essentially 150 years of religious war in Europe, ending with the Thirty Years'

War, but it was the result of the fact that all the parties involved recognized that the

continuation of this war would leave nobody alive to enjoy the victory.

And that is about the situation we have in the Middle East.

Because years and years, 17 years of war in Afghanistan have not brought peace; Syria

is in a state of reconstruction, now, with the Syrian government controlling almost the

whole country, Syrian refugees can return, but still what has to be reconstructed is enormous.

So you have a situation where the exhaust factor is a big reason.

And do not forget the exhaust factor of all the American soldiers who were on rotation

in these wars for many years, to Afghanistan, to Iraq, to Syria, and many of them came back

-- I think it's altogether -- 3 million U.S. soldiers who were on these kinds of rotations,

with their families affected, and many of them having post-traumatic disorders affecting

the whole family.

So I think the idea to end this whole, terrible idea of foreign wars, of U.S. basically playing

the role of being the bully for the British Empire, if Trump wants to stop that, people

should be happy!

Don't be so prejudiced about everything Trump does or does not do: The Western media are

characterizing Trump in a way which is absolutely not legitimate, because if this President,

and I've said this many times, gets the relationship with Russia and China on a good course, he

is going to be one of the great Presidents of the United States.

And I know that many of the international audience are going absolutely hysterical when

I'm saying that, but anybody who does not recognize that we must end geopolitics, we

must end wars, we must end tension especially between the nuclear powers, obviously is not

in their right mind.

So I would urge you, our audience, to give this a second thought, to think it through.

Don't be prejudiced, but think about a Peace of Westphalia solution as the only way to

end a terrible series of totally unjust wars, and wars based on lies.

Please, do not rush to conclusions: Think about it, make yourself informed, and check

the sources -- look at what the Chinese are saying, and doing; look at what the Russians

are doing, and then you can come to a better understanding of the situation.

For more infomation >> Ending These Wars Should Make You Happy! - Duration: 9:17.

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Here & Now Friday December 28 2018 - Duration: 33:42.

For more infomation >> Here & Now Friday December 28 2018 - Duration: 33:42.

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Why Support The River Food Pantry? - Duration: 1:40.

You know, I work in the kitchen most of the time.

And on average, we feed maybe anywhere from

180 to maybe 230, 240 people a day.

And not only is it just adults, but it's also children too.

You know, it's not like they're feeding us 100%.

But it's enough to get you around to the next month,

and then to the next month.

It's like a hill.

You just need to get over it.

And they, they're the ones that help so many people

to get over that hill.

So, I think that the impact is

more than what you see in here.

The impact is like a tree

that it goes out into the whole community.

For $10, we can buy about $100 worth of food

through our wholesale power.

And that's a big deal for us

and hopefully a big deal to our donors.

Our vision at The River is a fully nourished community.

We're very grateful to our current donors

because they make this all happen.

It's through their generosity that we can be so generous

to others in the community that need it.

So we're very grateful for our supporters.