hi welcome to monster transmissions today we're going to go over rebuild
video on a turbo 350 that's a GM transmission made from late 1969 all our
way up to nineteen seventy nine but this is a GM specifically this is a Chevrolet
unit the bolt pattern here is for a Chevy engine block and it fits v6 s and
also v8 engines and most GM applications so it's a very versatile unit it's very
durable and it's also a hot rods favorite so now we're going to go
through how to disassemble this transmission this was freshly removed
from a vehicle so we have all the apparatus is still attached to it from
the tranny mount speedo gears all those components so we're basically going to
strip this unit down to the bare case and then we're going to clean the
components and go through how to rebuild a turbo 350 but first we want to start
with as you probably noticed safety first
there make sure you wear gloves and put on some safety glasses so now we're
going to get into actually removing components on the transmission the first
component we're going to start with is actually the tail housing so rear the
transmission we want to remove this rear seal it's much easier to remove it while
it's still attached to the transmission instead of trying to hammer the seal out
chasing the tail around the bench you want to hammer into you'll damage the
lip the casting of the pump collapsing that seal down to remove it next I'm
going to remove obviously is the the actual speedo housing on this side
normally they come there with the SAE standard thread but this alady unit has
metric bolts on it so we're going to remove the speedo this
one this one has to be a 10 millimeter again make sure you keep all these
components together rocks gonna put them in a transmission pan once we remove the
pan you remove that housing
now we're going to remove the four bolts then those have a 9/16 head and it's a
3/8 16 thread so we're going to soften them up we're going to hammer a couple
times with a hammer and what that dude is shocked we're loose enough to the
threads in the casting of the case and then you're gonna easily remove those
four bolts we've seen these bolts sometimes I do know that for many years
rear seals removed this is the mechanical speedo set up for this
transmission we're simply going to depress this clip and this nylon gear
will slide right off the output shaft
here and the clip next component I'm going to remove is actual governor
assembly this is a retainer clip simply remove this clip and now we're going to
remove this cover for the governor assembly again it has a lip you want a
hammer away and not down in towards the cap because you go puncture a hole and
then you'll have a leak has a rubber seal remove that seal and this is the
governor assembly it'll rotate out of the transmission case this is the
governor assembly we removed the balance of the linkage this one happens to have
a 15 millimeter but normally they are 9/16
linkages now removed now we're to rotate the transmission around to remove the
balance of the components we'll start with the rear this is the vacuum
modulator most modulators and later years have an adjustment Schrader valve
inside the modulator to adjust how much vacuum pressure which also control the
shift pattern the bolt size is a half inch or 13 millimeter and there's a
support bracket you want to keep that and you can discard the old modulator
and now we have the accumulator housing ok the accumulator piston and spring is
behind this cover to actually compress the spring there is a access hole on
this side if you push this end you'll actually go behind this snap ring so you
can pull it out of the case and now we can remove the cover it does have spring
tension behind it if it doesn't that means the spring is usually broken this
is the cover this is the spring this is not broken but it's compressed and this
is the accumulator piston itself we've already removed the throttle cable right
here at the detent cable and a350 then that controls the downshift we're now
going to remove the two coolant line fittings there's usually 11 16 or 17
millimeter
we still have the transmission mount load on the transmission as well as all
the pan bolts we're going to remove the transmission mount for now we're going
to remove the 13 pan bolts the heads in these bolts are normally 1/2 inch or 13
millimeter now the pan is off the exposes the bother components the first
thing we're gonna remove is the actual filter just usually a gasket no much
left of this gaskets been in for many many years and now we're going to
disconnect a detent cable and rod mechanism so it's critical to hook this
detent system off correctly because you can attach it the opposite direction you
remove the detent cable assembly now we're going to remove all the bolts here
are the same size they're all 1/2 inch or 13 millimeter they're all the same
length so you have to worry about putting them in the wrong position the
first bolt we're going to remove is actually here is the detent for the
actual linkage of the transmission there are two valve body gaskets so you'll
have to most likely pry this off and usually the gasket will stick to the
casting of the valve body and a shift plate disconnect a manual linkage right
here's a little s clip this is the manual valve and this is the actual
valve body this is the brain of the transmission the oil is dictated where
it goes through the case to apply different gears we have to first remove
this plate it's the same bolts they're all the same length again it's a 1/2
inch head they're much shorter than the valve body bolts so it's obvious where
they go
this is the plate this is the actual shift plate try to get as much of this
off as we can so we were to remove those check balls so this one happens to have
nylon chuck balls we prefer to use the steel now this is the axial band piston
this will apply the band and this application is primarily for down shift
I would encourage you to keep this assembly together and it's also usually
filters this is a filter for the governor assembly you can discard that a
new filter will come in the kit so now we're going to remove the linkage
assembly we're first going to remove the actual detent assembly here there's two
bolts you use these or 9/16 they've been in for a while this bracket will only
fit one direction this holds your parking pawl in position we're not going
to remove this c-clip here little c-clip now has a eleven sixteenths nut we're
simply going to remove this nut
this is an actual parking mech in that parking rod and this is your detent
linkage for the transmission the manual shift lever rod okay now we've completed
disassembling the valve body area and all the linkage we're now going to
remove the actual pump bolts the front of the transmission gig in here this is
the input shaft and this is the stator shaft of the pump assembly you have
eight bolts on this pump so you removed all thirteen millimeter or 1/2 inch
bolts they're long and they also have a special washer on them to seal the oil
from going out so what we're going to do first is we're going to remove the front
seal you want to hammer the lip of the seal and collapse the seal down you want
to hammer into you'll damage the lip the casting of the pump rear seal is now
removed now we're going to work on removing all the pump bolts or some
bolts are really stubborn they have to use the air impact gun but this is only
for disassembly when you reassemble you do everything by hand so you don't strip
or over tighten the bolts right through this port right here you can actually
see the intermediate clutches and the steel plates so I have the screwdriver
and applying a little pressure tap the cake and there that way you're not over
pressuring that and you're also not going to damage the pump by removing it
so you simply slide the pump assembly off
so this components going to remove or the actual intermediate clutches you
have the top plate this is a wave plate this is a cushion this cushions the
shift when it when the transmission shifts do you have the first plate it'll
be the same principle all the way through there will be clutch plate
clutch plate through Strahm in each area that has clutches
and then you have the backing plate much thicker than a regular steel plates the
next component we want to remove is the actual band there's a band here where to
get pushed through the case you want to release that band so you can slide this
mechanism out of the case this is the forward drum this is the director um and
this is the kickdown band itself so now that you have that removed you have a
top ring here for the front planetary it's simply there's nothing holding it
there it's just laying there okay there's the three tab washer that goes
on top but it's underneath the forward drum at this moment then you have
another washer sometimes a bearing there's a very very thin snap ring it's
about an inch in the around diameter and that is actually inside the groove of
these teeth you must remove that to continue to disassembly of the
transmission
and then that's a little tiny snap ring so make sure we don't lose that snap
ring now you should be able to remove the front planetary from planetary then
you have the Sun shell it also has a three tab washer now there's a snap ring
and the perimeter of the case holding the center support in place so it has an
opening right near the top here you're going to squeeze that snap ring inward
and it will allow it to come off the casting of the case now I've started it
walk the snap ring around and now to remove this Center support the easiest
way to do it is to push this output shaft forward and it'll push the whole
Center support the reverse clutches everything out of the transmission we
now have this is the center support the upward shaft the center support can come
right off so these are the reverse clutches and steals again you want to
line them up in order it's going to expose the actual rear Planetary this is
the rear ring gear which also is removable from the output shaft itself
there is a bearing on the back and then there's a bearing obviously for the rare
planetary this is kind of complicated to remove you need a foot press or you need
a compression tool like this ok now we applied the compression tool it locks
into the side of the case and you screw to Center down and it will compress the
spring to to expose a snap ring behind it we disconnected a snap ring the snap
ring came out with a pair of snap ring pliers this is just the snow
bring move the tool this is the reverse spring assembly and now the piston we're
going to apply a little bit of air and pop the piston out because it's sealed
in with three Springs sometimes they'll just fall out other times you can blow
it out you want to blow air into this passage to rear piston assembly here so
now the 350 case is completely disassembled we're going to explain how
to disassemble the actual direct drum then the forward drum and the pump
assembly so the first thing we want to remove is the actual clutches and steals
from inside the drum so we're going to remove the snap ring and your backing
plate all the clutches and steels so the same principle where we use the
compression tool to compress the spring down you need a foot press or a press to
compress this spring down to expose a snap ring here remove the snap ring to
take the spring assembly and the piston out of the drum assembly itself you want
to locate the opening of the snap ring and you want to compress the spring
evenly down just Center it on the press
apply the press compressing the spring down and now you can remove the snap
ring
okay now that we remove the snap ring from the drum remove the spring assembly
now you can remove the piston assembly it's aluminum and has multiple seals and
there's a seal on the perimeter here are the piston it also has one here on the
inside just you're going to replace these seals they all come in their
mouths in a box kit there's also a seal inside the drum this seal happens to be
facing upward you remove that seal now you're going to remove the outer
ring gear for the Spragg assembly and you're going to remove this clip there's
a notch here you can remove this clip which will take off this retainer clip
it'll expose the Spragg assembly and allow you to take this ring right off
let's now remove the plate and you simply rotate this ring gear of hardened
ring here this will be replaced in the monster in a box kit with a hardened one
makes it much more durable than what originally came Spragg assembly again
will come in the mounts on the box kit we're now going to disassemble the
forward drum and remove the snap ring it's just like on the director arm
simply remove the snap ring can you move all the clutches and steels
backing plate you can keep them in order we don't have to put this back onto the
foot press and again compress the spring mechanism down to remove this spring and
the piston okay we now loaded the forward drum onto the foot press and
we've rotated a drum around to expose the opening and a snap ring will
compress evenly the spring mechanism down and now the spring is evenly
compressed we're now going to remove the snap ring okay now we've removed a snap
ring from the drum remove the spring assembly you remove the piston and again
there's multiple lip seals there's one on the perimeter of the piston and one
inside on the piston
remove those going to stock them together so we don't mismatched
components and we're going to disassemble the pump assembly first
thing we want to remove is the actual gasket this gasket was the the gasket to
the case of the transmission there's also a rubber sealing ring on the
perimeter here going to remove this seal there's also a washer later models
actually have a towing team bearing here you remove this washer and then we're
going to remove all the sealing rings there's five sealing rings and what you
do there's a lock mechanism on the sealing rings it's a channel this is the
sealing ring and actually has a lock mechanism you know lock in to position
you know all the snapping through a roof in this component we want to remove is
the actual spring mechanism for the intermediate piston on the pump there's
five bolts they all have 1/2 inch or 13 millimeter heads so we remove all five
of those bolts these five bolts are unique lengths they are shorter than the
bolts for the valve body so you can remove the spring assembly then you have
the intermediate piston again it has lip seals two lip seals it has an outer and
an inner lip seal those would be removed for cleaning
and then you get the stator side of the pump or the backside of the pump and
this is the front half of the pump and this is the actual pump gear so there's
two gears you can remove those for cleaning and that will finally expose
the front pump bushing which how we replaced after we clean so these are all
the components to the transmission again you want to keep the individual
components together so it's easy for reassembly so now we're gonna take all
these units clean the case wash all these components and then we'll start
again with the reassembly
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