before starting I decided to go for a triangular Hill so I cut two different
types of plywood and beveled them with a jigsaw it looks like they were five and
fifteen millimeters thick but it doesn't really matter after gluing the pieces
together with PVA glue I cast some stones using chip blaster
and Woodland Scenics molds to be honest I didn't mix enough plaster so you can see
the back my rocks is not perfect don't worry it doesn't affect the final result
when positioning the rocks you don't need to be super precise just play
around with them and look for the best placement you can get you're going to
glue them down later on
once you find the rock configuration you like the most it's time to stick the
rocks in place and get rid of this step between the wood layers to do so we'll
mix some homemade sculpting plaster and spread it all over the base to look for
a more organic result for the next step I took a water bottle cut it open and
used it to mix my sculpting plaster
I quickly started applying it around the base to simulate the soil I start in
those areas where I want the rocks to sit of course I also tried to get rid
of the step between the two levels try to be as organic as possible if you
manage to be good enough you won't even need to go back and do touch-ups
by the way sorry for my hand I chose a terrible angle to do this lesson learned
I will make sure it won't happen again well at least in the next videos
I will finish this step off-cam but if you want to see how to make the
sculpting plaster head for Luke's APS YouTube channel and check it out I will
put a link down in the description
this is how the hill looked after applying the sculpting plaster
the piece was not dried because I was trying to deal with Japan famous high
humidity but I thought it would be nice to show you
I also applied some additional small rocks here and there to get a more
realistic piece when we'll be done with this piece it will look like a bunch of
rock outcroppings surrounded by growing ground I am planning to use this
piece of terrain as a line of sight blocker first skirmish wargames it is
probably too small to be functional in a 40k game
and the next step will start painting the rocks
we'll be painting the rocks with a progression of Browns we'll start with
this Americana true ochre followed by burnt sienna
and finally burnt umber
the final step will be washing everything with charcoal gray a really
really dark grey brown with the addition of some pure black first of all let me
show how to prepare the washes by diluting the craft paints with water get
a blob of paint in a plastic container
and add the same volume of water again sorry for my hands they keep going
in front of the camera all the time you need to get close to a thick wash
consistency feel free to add more water if you need
once you're ready we'll be painting the rocks in a random pattern
leave some white spots here and there to give the rock and more realistic look I
will show you only the ochre and do the burnt sienna off-cam but the process is
the same
I know it looks like crap right now but you have to be patient you'll see the
result coming together step by step the darker Brown tone the burnt umber will be
diluted even more and will be used to tried the colors together almost as a
wash or a glaze so here we are with the rocks painted in three colors the ochre the
Sienna and the burnt umber wash. burnt umber was more diluted than the others so you
can see how it stains the rocks differently the plaster was still wet so
this color did not stain too excessively it just ties everything
together
the rocks are now brown and we need to change this so we now move to a diluted
wash made of charcoal gray
mix it well and slap it on let me speed up this party you're paint now is a
wash and you wanted to go everywhere
my wash was actually too diluted so I gave it another coat after the first one
and then off-cam I also do a light dry brush with some yellowish off-white
paint this is how the finishing rocks look like after two washes I went a
little bit too far with the second wash but I think the result is pretty good
the piece is still wet so I have to wait for it to dry before moving to the dry
brush instead I'm not going to show it it's just a normal dry brush with an
off-white paint look how lovely the details on the rocks
are beautiful amazingly enough I managed to change the white balance on my phone
now the rocks look more natural and closer to their real-life color you can
also see how the dry brushing added a lot to the 3-dimensional look of the
piece I'm pretty satisfied with the result so let's call the part 1 of this
tutorial done in the next part I will move on to the ground cover and flocking
stages thank you so much for watching my very first video if you liked this
tutorial please like and subscribe so I can keep making more
be sure to leave your critics in the comments below so I can keep improving
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