Crazy quilting became popular
in the late 1800's
small, random pieces of fabric
were hand stitched together
and then embellished with elaborate embroidery.
Now you can fast-forward to today
and crazy quilting can be totally created
using an embroidery machine.
Eileen Roche, embroidery expert
has mastered this technique.
Welcome back to Sewing With Nancy, Eileen.
Nancy, it's great to be here.
Today, if you have scraps of fabric
thread and an embroidery machine
you can immediately become a crazy quilting expert.
Wondering how?
All the patches, stitches and elegant embroidery
is programmed right into the designs.
This process is extremely gratifying.
"Today's Crazy Quilting With Your Embroidery Machine"
That's what's next on Sewing with Nancy.
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Before embarking on today's crazy quilting
Eileen let's share with our viewers
the traditional crazy quilting.
This is a treasure in my house
made by my great-grandmother
Alice Lee Larson.
You can see the date.
She was Norwegian
and maybe didn't spell August quite right.
But we have a beautiful date.
There are silks, twills, cottons, wool
all hand-stitched.
I just adore some of these crazy embroiders.
And she uses a variety of thread.
She's actually using yarn
and some cotton, and I imagine if we looked closely
there might be some silk thread in here.
Yes.
Unfortunately, some of the patches have seen
their better day but with that you can tell
that she stitched on a foundation.
This was an old Damask tablecloth.
A tablecloth, look at that.
You can see the weave
of the fabric come through.
The silk has--
Again, through the test of time, has not quite worn well.
It's almost a hundred years old, Nancy.
It is, it's very precious.
Her daughter, Viola Larson
in 1973, this piece is dated
made crazy quilting again using the same techniques
but with velour scraps.
So it's a warm, loving fabric.
And it's not finished which allows us
to go to the underside
and see how it was crazy pieced together.
Big, unmeasured, you know
just kind of scraps of fabric.
Build as you go.
Yes.
It's just kind of fascinating.
You can see the variety of foundations.
We're pointing out some similarities
to yesterday's crazy quilting and today's crazy quilting
as you'll soon see.
Let's just look at these.
You just have to take time to admire some of this work.
Even if you're not a hand-embroiderer
you can accomplish the same thing.
Absolutely.
On today's machines you can mimic this look
a lot easier.
We havesome small samples to show you
that you can dabble in this
you can expand upon it.
But beautiful fabrics.
These were silks that were remnants
from previous work that I had in my stash.
So beautiful colors to coordinate
and of course the black offsets it just beautifully.
And like what you saw earlier
the embroidery, this is done with the machine.
And it's going to do it automatically for you.
Even some of the embroiders, we'll show you
some options for this.
They could be added before or after.
And then even trim or lace
that can be from scraps from your sewing area
or this was created at the embroidery machine.
Now here you have silk dupioni.
I do.
It's a luscious fabric.
But you can also use cottons.
Here shows a patchwork block of cottons
and it's done on a foundation.
So let's talk a little bit about this block
or the blocks that we have here
and point out to you if you haven't used
a computerized embroidery machine
you see that it's not just for accent embroideries.
There are these beautiful stitches
that embellish each seam.
We have three different versions
and with a large variety of stitches
some that have long stitch lengths
others that are tiny
really beautiful decoration.
But one thing they all have in common
is that very first color that they stitch
is this kind of schematic.
It's a numbered sequence
and it has outlines that show you
exactly where your fabrics are going to go.
On the screen of our sewing machine
you can see that this is the first thread color
of the embroidery design.
It's functional.
Right, so I always suggest using a contrasting thread
unless you're doing all light fabrics on top.
But, you know, it's easier to see
when it's in a darker color.
And instead of the foundation being an old tablecloth
this is traditional embroidery stabilizer.
Right.
It's a poly mesh cutaway.
This one happens to be fusible
which helps in our flip and sew method.
You can see the shine of the fusible.
Mm-hum.
Let's talk a little bit
about the templates that come with the blocks
so that you know how to cut your fabric.
How do you prepare those scraps?
There's two ways to prepare your templates.
You can do what we call windowpane
or paper doll style
where you actually cut right on the outline.
Seam allowances have already been included in these
so that's good to know.
If you're going to work on
maybe a test scrap of embroidery
that you already have in your stash
you would stitch that on regular stabilizer
pop it out of the hoop and then place
that windowpane template over it, centering it.
Then you could--
Trace if you wanted to.
Trace if you wanted, with a removable marker, or not.
And then you'll know exactly what size it should be.
Now Eileen has pre-cut
these five swatches or patches
that are going to go on here.
And you can see, you don't have to get them exact.
Oh, no, and actually bigger is better.
Because, you know, the flip and sew method
can be a little tricky.
So if you leave some room for error
then you won't have that many challenges
when it comes time to piece them in the hoop.
You can see, mine are really oversized.
But that's okay, because the scraps
that you wind up with after this project
are often usable for the next project.
So let's go stitch this now.
All crazy quilting is enhanced with embroidery
whether it's by machine or by hand.
You need to choose your beautiful thread colors.
I'm working with rayon thread in multiple colors
more than this that I'm showing you.
Then in the bobbin, for computerized embroidery
I'm using the bobbin thread recommended
by my sewing machine manufacturer.
It's light-weight
it's not the same weight as the rayon.
Make sure you put in a new needle.
It's so important, don't you find, Eileen?
Absolutely.
You get a fresh start with a brand new needle.
We have our embroidery units attached to our sewing machine
and you have already stitched
one of the designs we showed you earlier.
I have color one
which has all the numbers and the outlines
of the different patches.
I'm already on color two
and you can see color two
is an outline of my first patch.
So it's time to
lay that fabric right-sides up
over that outline.
Lower the presser foot.
I'll keep my hands out of the needle's way
but I will hold on to that patch
just for a moment to get it started.
It looks like I didn't position my patch just right.
I have a little corner out of position
but it will be covered.
By the seam allowance.
By the seam allowance.
So I'll be fine on that patch.
It's like paint by number
because you have two, three, four, five
on that embroidery hoop and you know where to go next.
Absolutely
and it's so fun to watch it come alive.
Now the needle will advance over to color two.
Color two is just another seam.
That's going to connect
patch one and patch two.
So in the hoop I will position my fabric.
Now this time I position it
right-sides together.
I can lift the fabric beneath
to make sure that my edge is going to be caught.
Lower the presser foot.
And again, keeping my hands out of harms way
way out by the perimeter of the hoop
I'll just guide the fabric
so it can cover that seam.
Now the fun part is next, Nancy.
The revealing.
Or the unveiling, I should say.
Right, we wait until the presser foot lifts
and moves to the next line
then I just finger press that open.
Of course, silk is so responsive
it just does flatten right out.
Time to take the next patch, patch number three.
Do you ever tape that down, Eileen?
Yes, this would be a great time to tape that down.
Thanks, Nancy.
I keep the transparent tape
out beyond the boundaries of the block.
But you know, you really can
even stitch on that transparent tape.
No harm at all.
Again, I'm lifting my seam allowance
to make sure that my new edge
is going to cover it.
I think I have this patch upside-down
so we'll flip it in this fashion.
Okay, lower the presser foot, and off we go.
So really it's embroidery at its simplest form
just doing straight stitching
to construct this patch
unlike my great-grandmother and my great-aunt
they did it free form on their Damask tablecloth.
This is done easily
and you'll have just the same patch look
patch after patch.
That's right.
If you'd like to you could do some
trimming of that seam allowance.
We're just going to expedite a little bit by--
See how fast this goes.
And I will tape this section down again
in the seam allowance.
That's just a little bit of insurance.
Now, I have quite a bit of excess fabric here
so I think I will take a moment
to trim this patch away
and reveal you know
the area underneath which is number four.
And just right-sides together
aligning that raw edge.
And again, it's always wise to lift it.
If you're working with skimpy fabric sections
you can even flip this back
and make sure you're going to
cover the area that you need to cover.
Sure.
Once you're confident
flip it back
align that raw edge
and lower the presser foot.
Off we go.
This is fun.
It is really, you know
building a block by numbers
just as you said earlier.
While this is finished stitching
we'll take a break and do this off camera.
Now that I have patch four applied
and flipped back and even taped down
it's time to add my decorative corner.
This is an embellishment
we've already done on a piece of fabric.
I want to make sure
that it's going to fit in the area
and lower the presser foot, and go!
Again, I'll just kind of hold onto that
so it doesn't shimmy across the hoop.
Even though that embroidery had a little stabilizer on it
it's just fine to add.
Oh, sure.
It's very light-weight and it won't--
No harm.
No harm, no foul.
[laughter]
The pieces are cut larger.
It's just a process
and you get a rhythm to this after a while.
You do get a rhythm to this.
Okay, and then we'll just flip this back
and reveal the beautiful fabrics underneath.
Now, I'm going to take a moment and tape that down
so that it won't get caught
as we do the decorative stitches.
Just bear with me one second.
While Eileen's getting this ready
the next stitches will be, as we mentioned
these beautiful decorative stitches
that were done by hand traditionally
and now are done by machine.
Big, wide, lovely stitches
that would be kind of hard to do
if you had to do them by hand.
You're ready to do that stitching.
Now often when you're working on the decorative stitches
you are stitching over
maybe a light fabric and a dark fabric
so color choice can be a little difficult.
Always select colors that are going to pop.
The whole idea about crazy quilting
is that the stitches are visible.
Exactly, and a lot of times crazy quilting in the hoop
may be just with fabric.
This time it's fabric with embroidery
with decorative stitches, big decorative stitches.
Right.
This is a technique that more is better.
Yes, absolutely.
It's just kind of fun
to just watch what happens.
And each decorative stitch is a different color segment
so you can add colors, you know
seven different colors if you'd like
throughout the block.
So just take the time to
have all these stitches stitch out.
Each time you can change color
as you can see here.
Next we'll show how to personalize
just as my great-grandmother did.
Eileen finished stitching
all the decorative embroideries
the decorative stitches on her block.
This is a different block, of course.
But now to add some personalization
a date, a monogram, just to give it
that same traditional look but in a modern way.
Let me show you how.
I'm going to add the monogram
with build-in lettering on my machine.
I'll select a script
because I think that goes with the style.
I certainly don't need that extra large
so I'll go down to a medium size
and touch set and then sewing.
Now because this is a build-in design
I don't know exactly how to place it
in the block.
I'm going to use a target sticker
that just has a cross-hair
with an arrow pointing on one end.
That's designating the top of the embroidery design.
In this case, the top of the letter 'E'.
On the editing feature of the machine
I'll use the jog keys
to move the hoop so that I am centered
right over that target sticker.
I have to rotate my design
because, you know
I want to fit that 'E' in that space.
So I'm going to use a little tool
that is will tell me exactly how many degrees
to rotate the design.
And I've positioned it
centered over the target sticker.
I just want to make sure that
the edge is parallel with the hoop
and I swing the dial so that the red cross-hair
sits on top of the cross-hair underneath.
It tells me to rotate 344 degrees.
I'll go into rotate, and I will rotate
340.
Oh, you know
I'm too close to the edge
so we'll do that first out here.
We just do it by tens
and we'll get right to 340.
Then when I move
back to my target sticker
I'm able to stitch the design.
Lower the presser foot, remove the target sticker
and embroider.
That's how easy it is to personalize a quilt block.
In another little patch I could add a date
if this was maybe a memento for a wedding
or some special occasion in a family.
And just let it stitch.
So many options are built right into
embroidery machines today.
You have lots of different lettering.
Of course with the different colors of thread
the sky's the limit on your creativity, really.
It's beautiful.
Now we've used all silk fabrics
and while this is kind of stitching
I'm just going to show you that
you certainly could use cotton fabrics.
This is what this block is made out of.
You can see the traditional cotton fabrics
not quite as shiny.
Then you could also consider
using cotton thread rather than rayon thread.
So the choice is--
You know, depending upon the flatness of the fabric
you may want to use the flat, cotton type of thread.
And look, those are beautiful
even on tonal look.
I like that look a lot.
We're going to be doing some more embroidering
but while this is stitching
I'll just talk about
when you're embroidering in a hoop
and creating a block
the last stitch always happens to show
or some of the last stitches
will give you a cutting line and a stitching line.
So every block will be exact.
If you remember from my great-aunt's blocks
they weren't always alike.
Here they can always be alike
because you're going to be trimming
along the other edge, stitching--
Let's see if we can show you
on the inner edge of this.
So you have exact lines to do the trim.
That's what I've done here.
No matter what, if this is
you're first time
piecing a quilt
you can have it exact.
If this is your first time embroidering
you're going to have it exact.
This is a great transitional technique.
Then when you go to piece
you actually just sew on that inner line.
That's your seam lines.
You don't have to be concerned about the seam allowance.
So many, many embroidery in-the-hoop projects
have those exact stitching lines.
The 'E' is coming to a close, isn't it?
Yes, it's just about done.
Once it's complete I want to add
some decorative flowers in another patch.
Here you can use a traditional template.
And just in closing, Eileen, if you can show
if you're familiar with embroidery
you know about templates.
You can just kind of show what that is.
A template is a printed image
of your embroidery design.
Really any software that you have
you just go to file, print.
You can also stitch them out
but it's easiest to use software.
It has an arrowhead designating
the top of the embroidery design.
Then you just position it in the area
where you want the design to stitch out.
If it's square to the hoop you, wouldn't have to rotate it
but if not, you could use a tool
to determine how many degrees to rotate the design.
So you see, personalization
is very evident and very possible
with crazy quilting.
Sewing and quilting are very personal crafts.
So is the business of creating with needle and thread.
Please welcome Stephanie Struckmann
via Skype who has made
the art of sewing her business
a business within her home.
Great to see you again, Stephanie.
You too, thank you for having me.
I'm so excited.
Oh, I'm glad to interview you.
Tell our viewers your business experience
of setting up a sewing studio
a learning lab within your home.
When did you start, Stephanie?
I started five years ago.
I started teaching sewing lessons
probably six or seven years ago
when I worked for
a small sewing machine shop.
One of the managers suggested
that I start teaching
and I took her up on it right away.
Then the machine shop
probably within a year or two
announced that they were closing.
They were very grateful to allow me
to e-mail their community group
that they had kind of built up
just letting people know that
I still wanted to teach sewing classes
and that if anybody was interested
to please let me know.
So I started an e-mail list.
I told them I was getting married
and I was graduating
and I still wanted to teach sewing lessons.
I talked to my then fiancé
about doing that after we got married
and he said, yeah, definitely.
So as they were closing
I purchased a couple of student machines.
Good.
Yeah, we talked about--
Originally, it was in one room.
It just wasn't working out.
It was right in front when people walked in the door.
I kind of wanted the house to be more homey.
Sure.
So I talked him into moving it
into our living room
with a fireplace in it.
I like the fireplace as a thread rack.
That's very clever of you.
Yeah, yeah.
It was a nice flat space
to kind of keep it out of the way
and make it pretty.
How many machines do you have set up
in your sewing studio?
I have three main ones.
I try to keep my classes
if it's not a private lesson, to two to four students.
The classroom I originally had it in
could fit six students.
I had about six machine that I could kind of rotate through.
But then I kind of decided, six to eight students
sometimes is a little bit more difficult
especially when it's children.
So we decided to move it into the other room
and so I try to keep classes from two to four students
because it's a little bit smaller.
You have some interesting categories that you teach.
You mentioned younger girls or young boys
learning to sew
but you have some other combos
or other options for teaching.
Yeah, definitely.
I get a broad range of people.
Yeah, I like the kids classes.
I start from seven and up
and sometimes the parents decide
whether seven is too young.
I've had some really great sewers at seven.
Then I've had a lot of moms and daughters
which can be a really fun bonding experience for them
and for me
to get to know them and their relationship.
And then a lot of women, just friends
that want to get out and do something
or young moms that want to sew things
for their kids or home dec.
Sure, well, that's quite a variety.
If someone was thinking about starting
a sewing business within their home
what would be your top two recommendations
or suggestions to them
to give them business advice?
I think just to make sure that you have
a good spot that you can really call
I don't want to say home
but kind of, you know, home for your business
that can be comfortable.
You definitely when you're bringing students
especially kids into your home
you definitely want to make sure that
it's comfortable and that parents feel comfortable
leaving their kids there.
I even have a spot that if parents want
to stick around while their kids are in class
they can kind of sit there
and read a book or check e-mail or whatever.
Sure, what a great idea.
What's the biggest challenge that you've had over the years
of teaching sewing within your home
or having your home business?
You know, I would say that the biggest challenge
and something I kind of touched on earlier
was classes that are too big
especially when it's kids.
You know, when it's adults adults can be more patient
if you're helping other students and they need help.
They can also look over the shoulder of someone else
and be like, oh, okay, that's what I need to do.
Whereas children, if you have a classroom
of six to eight new sewers
that don't know what they're doing
it can be really overwhelming
unless they really pick up on it.
But you hate to leave somebody behind
who actually is doing a really good job and understands
but you know, they're waiting for other people who need help.
That might be a situation in
a lot of classrooms in general.
In other words, less is best
for beginner sewers.
Yeah, I like the two to four, is a good number.
Well, Stephanie, thanks for the advice.
Good luck as you continue
to teach sewing to a variety of ages
and good to see you.
Thank you, you too, always good to see you.
Well, thanks to Stephanie.
If you'd like to re-watch this interview
you can go to nancyzieman.com
watch the show, the interview or 80-plus programs.
This wraps up our first program of
"Today's Crazy Quilting With Your Embroidery Machine"
with Eileen Roche.
See you next time, bye for now.
Eileen Roche has written the book
"Today's Crazy Quilting With Your Embroidery Machine"
which serves as a reference for this two-part series.
The book includes a CD
with three crazy quilt blocks, three in-the-hoop projects
and twelve accent designs.
It's $29.99, plus shipping and handling.
To order the book, call 1-800-336-8373
or visit our website at: sewingwithnancy.com/2821.
Order Item Number BK00126
To pay by check or money order
call the number on the screen for details.
Visit Nancy's website at nancyzieman.com
to see additional episodes, Nancy's blog, and more.
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has been brought to you by
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