Hello and welcome to the YouTube Channel 3d printing 2 you.
In this Video we want to show you some tips and tricks for the latest Anet A8 version.
We bought this 3D Printer for round about 140€ at Gearbest.
Using the "Germany Priority Line" (just for German Users) there will be no extra costs like shipping and taxes.
We waited three weeks for our delivery.
The goods arrived without prejudice.
Besides the original assembly Video tutorial (David Dan) there are a lot of other assembly videos on youtube.
Therefore we show you a timelapse of the construction.
On the most important points we point out particularly noteworthy information, which will simplify your own printer assembly.
We have created an extra video on the wiring and verification of the electronic components.
We recommend you to watch this video before assemble your printer.
An optimization of the cabling leads to an enormous increase in safety and fire protection.
Let`s get to our first tip.
During the assembly you will positionate a lot of small nuts in the prefabricated slots for screwing the frame.
In this video we show you how to fix the nuts with painters tape.
This is particularly useful for components with two to three slots.
By this mehtod the nuts will not fall out during assembly.
From the other side you can easily tighten the screw.
The painters tape can be easily removed without leaving residue.
The adhesive tape should not protrude over the edge
to avoid clamping the tape during the assembly.
When mounting the toothed belt
you should fix one end in the plastic fixture.
Make sure that the teeths of the belt look down.
For mounting you can put the printer down.
The heating plate could be hold by a wrench.
After positionate the belt
make secure that the belt is fixed parallel to each other.
If this is not the case, straighten the belt again.
If the belt is in position (as in the video)
you can fix the upper fixture.
It is very important that the toothed belt is properly tensioned.
Otherwise there will be faults in your printings.
Use the enclosed pliers to remove the end.
In the Internet you can find a lot of advices to positionate the aluminium beam upside down
to have the belt in a straighter line.
In our opinion this is negligible.
The tension of the belt is more important.
Feel free to calculate the difference in tension for this two possibilities :)
In this Drawing you can see the z-stepper in its initial state.
In this position, the threaded rod would be in contact with the motor.
The clutch could not work in this formation.
Bevor the assembly of the z-steppers remove the clutch.
The clutch should be fixed 8-10 mm on the axis.
Same procedure with the threaded rod.
With the set distance, the system remains mobile and is able to compensate errors.
The grub screws for fixing and unfixing the clutch can be operate with the socket wrench.
The distances can be controlled with a caliper.
There are two different options for your axis holder.
In this picture you can figure out the difference between this two options.
The left one is printed. The right one is molded.
The printed version can be identified by the typical surface.
With 3d printed parts you should not have any trouble.
In our printer (in new versions), the brackets were injection-molded.
You can identify the injection molded parts because of the very smooth surface.
It was very difficult to assemble the axes with the injection molded holders.
The assembly was only possible by a tremendous use of hammering.
In this case a separation from the axle is absolutely necessary for the assembly.
Remember to remove the grub screws on the backside before doing the hammering.
If it is possible, remove the ball bearings because of possible damages.
Alternativ you can try to drill in the brackets.
The axes can be fixed by the grub screws.
For the assembly you first hammer one of the x axis in the injection molded holder.
Do not forget to mount the bearing on the axle.
There are 2 bearings on the upper rod.
You can identify the upper side by the two golden thread nuts.
Do the same procedure on the other side with the left bearing.
For the assembly process we needed a bit of violence for reaching the perfect size.
A dampening underlay is definitely useful for this mounting procedure.
During the hammering think about measuring in regular steps the distance between your z-bearings.
The distance between the guide rods is 42,5 cm (rod midpoint to rod midpoint).
It is very practicable to measure this distance very often.
Another possibility for the assembly could be by using very big screw clamps.
After you have reached the correct distance, you must test the assembly on its sliding ability.
It is very important that the gliding works very easily.
Otherwise your steppers will fail to produce the needed force.
We also uploaded a video where you can see the failing steppers because of the wrong distance between the rods.
When mounting the x-stepper to the injection-molded bracket,
4 screws of size M3x 20 are required.
For 3D printed brackets 3 screws of size M3x25 are required.
There were 4 screws, 2 grub screws and the 2 screws of size M3x10 (for the x-stop) in the enclosed bag.
The stepper is attached to the bracket from the rear.
It is important that the terminal for the cable connection point downwards.
The position of the x-stop has also changed with the new injection mold holders.
During assembly, the switch rocker is pointing forward and in the direction of the extruder.
You also have to use the screws M2.3x10 for fastening.
A cable holder is attached to the upper right-hand corner of the frame in the original David Dan video.
In order for the extruder to reach any position,
you have to align it directly above the construction site and press it all the way to the left.
In this case, it can be seen that the cable length to the motherboard is no longer sufficient.
You can easily solve the problem by attaching the holder to the upper left of the printer.
To do this, you push the extruder just to the right just above the construction platform,
simulating the extreme case of the widest deflection.
The construction platform should be screwed down on all four screws.
When the cable is attached to the upper left, you can see much more cable length on the motherboard.
In addition we recommend a cable holder on the extruder.
With this cable holder you will get no trouble especially with high parts.
For this purpose one of the screws on the extruder holder is used.
It may be that you need a longer screw to fix it.
We hope the video will make you happy.
If you have any question, don't hesitate to ask us.
We will give our very best to answer your questions as fast and accurate as possible.
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