JEREMY: Hello everyone and welcome back to part three of Darrel's special series on drawing
with greater accuracy.
In today's presentation, Darrel connects the dots and we get to see the divider portion
of the straight edge and divider method.
So stay tuned; we've got a lot of learning coming up.
[music] JEREMY: All right, everybody, we're back with part three of our series on drawing
with greater accuracy.
That's part three of three, our final video.
And we're going to jump right in here.
Today Darrel is going to-- well, we're going to kind of wrap this drawing up.
We're going to plot a couple more points, kind of connect all the dots and see what
this outline actually looks like.
And then Darrel's going to introduce the divider portion of the straight edge and divider method.
So I'll stop talking, and let's jump right to it, Darrel.
DARRREL: Hey, glad you could join us for this third of the three part series.
And we're talking about the layout.
The straight edge and divider is just a fabulous opportunity for--not only for you to have
an accurate layout, but also continue to teach you, to help you start seeing things that
I think a lot of people often miss.
And if you can learn how to see angles and curves and get the proper structure and the
proportion, it just makes you feel so much better about the rest of your drawing.
As you see it start out well with a good foundation, then you have an opportunity to just kind
of have a little more comfort and be able to interpret your drawing and apply the techniques
that I like to share with you.
Anyway, over the past two, we started out with some of the things that I think were
important to have good results from this method.
Let me just go over a few of those things with you real quick.
I've gone through and I've put a little dot everywhere I want to find something.
I could put a dot anywhere I want.
I could put a dot clear out here, and I'll be able to find it accurately, because I'm
going to be able to come at it from two different points.
And that's basically what we'll do when we get off of the-- either one of these bearing
lines, we'll be able to go ahead and find any feature we want.
We can go ahead and put dots all the way along here and we can find them, so that you can
go ahead and copy this contour, know where the bend in the jaw or the cheek is, so that
you can accurately capture her character.
Now, you can do as little as you want.
That's another nice thing about this, because the grid has so many lines.
And I think many of you have probably had the problem of being able to remove them.
So I'm using a 2B pencil.
I don't want to go too dark.
I certainly don't want to press too hard.
And I want to try to keep from pushing my point into the paper as I go on a line, when
I'm using a straight edge or something, because that tends to just bury that graphite into
the paper a little bit more.
And we want to be able to erase all those lines,
because they're such a contrast with the wonderful curves and flow of a person's face, or whatever
we happen to be drawing.
So what I want to do now is I'm going to go ahead and just-- let's just put that dot,
let's put that dot out here, just to see if we can duplicate that on our paper.
Let's see what we can do about finding this dot.
Maybe I should've gone-- I'm out too far, so I'm going to come on the inside.
This is one more thing I just want to remind you about.
If you have a scrap piece of art paper-- most of us do; we have something that didn't turn
out.
But this is thick, just like the 300 series Strathmore Bristol.
It's the same thing I'm drawing on, and so I can take some spray mount and I can spray
the back of my print that I printed off my printer, and I can go ahead and then trim
it and make sure it's very square.
Use a right angle triangle; something like this will help you be able to make sure that
you have the thing square.
And then if you have a guillotine cutter or something like that, you want to make sure
that you're getting them at right angles, and not having a parallelogram.
But anyway, the thickness of this paper is wonderful, because then when I attach my print
onto it, it raises this up higher than the surface of the paper, because I have the printer
paper on it as well.
So that's why when I come along here, I can now take this pivot point, I can come out
to that dot we made, out here - I'm still going to the same pivot point here - and I'm
going to now slide this paper along-- oh, and I [need it [00:04:52.01] longer.
I forgot about that.
It's nice to have a two foot ruler or straight edge, because sometimes it's really nice to
be able to reach out there.
[00:05:00.27] What I'm going to do is I'm going to scoot this along, making sure this
stays parallel with the edge of my print, and I'm going to match it up until it comes
to that pivot bearing point again.
So now I know my line's out here somewhere, so I'll put a little longer line out here.
And now I'm going to come from the other side.
And I'm going to go ahead and pivot from this side as well, because all I need to do is
intersect that line, know exactly where it should be intersected, and I'll have that
thing pinpointed in just the right place.
So I'm going to come out here like this.
And then I'll show you why I'm showing you this.
I've got to come out here to this new pivot point.
These are our anchors; these are the things that are going to help us keep this thing
absolutely accurate, and making sure that this is still exactly parallel; the print
and the paper.
So here we are.
Now I know that where this crossed is that dot.
Let's go ahead and take a look at that a little closer, see if we can-- oh, here we are with
that dot.
Now, naturally we don't want these around here, but I have the dot.
I can pinpoint anything I want on that paper.
And so that's exactly how I did each one of these features.
I came in and I said, 'You know what?
I want to find this.'
I went to my little one here and I put my dot on there, and, naturally, all I have to
do is line up these features, any one of those dots that I've decided that's where I want
to go ahead and find the distance or the thickness, or whatever it happens to be.
Now I'm going to come over here and I'm going to be able to find out where that is from
one angle, and then I want to be able to intersect it, lining it up with this pivot point.
I've got the pivot point on my paper, and now I have a chance to go ahead
and make a little longer line, because I don't know how short it's going to be and how long
it's going to be, and then I can come back from a different place.
Maybe I can come back, in this case, from the middle one.
Because angles are always true.
It's a wonderful thing.
If I can go ahead and make sure that I have things lined up right, and I have this from
even that center bearing point, over to this dot that I've made-- hard to see in this reflection.
But then this is going to tell me where it's going to intersect that line.
And so it's right there.
So here's my line.
Now I have a chance to come in, and if I want to - and I don't have enough dots on there,
but I'm just showing you - that I can come in and now know that this line is part of
that cheek.
And if I have this in the same orientation, then I have a chance to know where the turn
is.
And you can start seeing this develop.
We can use now our divider.
If we start getting enough things on here, then I'm going to say, 'Okay, well maybe I
have enough on here that I can start using this effectively.'
And what the divider is, is it's a comparative measuring tool.
And one of the great things about this is you can use a recipe.
You can go to what you want to find.
I'm going to try and find the outer part of her hair here.
And I'm going to go to what I want to find, go to an anchor point, go to something substantial
that I really can identify.
Could be the corner of an eye, could be this, but this is a good start here.
And so then I'm going to find an equivalent.
Let's find something that's the same.
Oh, look at that.
My, oh my.
It doesn't always work out that way, but this goes from that bearing pivot point, up to
the middle.
And so now I'm going to go to my drawing.
This is the recipe; you go to what you want tofind, you go and find an equivalent, you
go to that equivalent-- now, it's going to be a little different measurement.
It's coincidentally just about the same.
But we're going to go ahead and make sure I adjust this so it's exactly the same as
the equivalent, and them I'm going to go back up to what I wanted to find in the first place.
And here we are.
If it's important to know the angle, because we have a curve here and it obviously would
be a different distance from the center as we go around, well, I probably would want
to make sure that I have this at the same angle.
I may want to mark it and then use my straight edge.
And I can do that as well, just so I know that I'm going in the same place, [00:10:00.19]
the same angle, so I can keep this thing parallel.
This is too big.
Always a challenge, again, trying to show this on camera.
But I can go ahead and get the general direction, keeping it parallel; that's hard with the
big one.
But here's my line, and so here's going to be the opportunity for me now to take that
line and come out here.
So here's my line.
Hair's a little more forgiving, so it gives me a chance to just get something that's a
little softer edge.
I don't have to worry quite so much about copying it exactly, and then I can go ahead
and continue on with my drawing of the head.
And I know where the top is because I documented where this is, and I know that this was going
to come up a little bit.
I can document any part of that curve.
That's what I want to try and let you know.
Not going to take the time to do it all now, but this is a great way of being able to find
exactly what you want to document, so that you can
draw with great proportion.
We have the ear down here, so we want to be able to keep this in the same orientation.
I could find out how far over the ear is, and then, with my divider, I could find out
how it is from the side of the face, out to the outside of the ear.
And also I want to document it, so I know exactly what I was looking at.
So here's the hair coming down, here's that ear.
Here's-- I've documented the other one over here, and I could find that again with-- coming
from two directions.
Here we have this all-- here's the other ear.
And I can find that easily by coming from two different directions.
Even though there's hair in front of it, and I don't want to make too much out of the ear,
it's still important for me toknow where that is, because it keeps developing this proportion
and starts getting me off on the right track.
So here's this curve.
I think I can probably pay attention to where it turns, where is the apex of the curve here,
and duplicate that pretty nice.
But then sometimes it's easy to not realize how much of a curve there is.
Sometimes it may look curved and it isn't actually a curve.
So I can take it, maybe, from two points.
I'm going to take it from where the ear joins to where the finger goes in front of there
and I'm going to put that there, so that I can now see how much of a curve it is, so
when I'm drawing this, I can try and duplicate that.
I could put a straight edge here as well and do the comparison.
The visual comparisons are great.
The comparative measurements that you can make with this, again, with the opportunity
you have to find an equivalent, and you can come from the corner of the mouth to the edge
of the face and find the equivalent.
Coincidentally, it's just about the eye there.
And so now we have an opportunity to find out where the edge of the face is.
I was able to go ahead and hit that pretty close, but the divider is not a compass.
If you go into the store, I'm surprised at how many people in art stores don't even know;
when you ask for a divider, they'll give you a compass.
Make sure you have one that you just spread with your hands.
Don't have the ones with the adjustment wheel in there.
That's for making circles very precisely, and it is not a divider.
They usually don't spread far enough.
Sometimes we may want to go way out there, when we have a measurement way outside, maybe
to a part of the clothing, or something from the tip of the nose or an eye or something,
and we need that extra spread.
But it's a comparative measurement tool.
Wonderful.
And it's a great way to keep yourself on track, so that you can find those little things that
might have gotten off a little bit.
Maybe your straight edge slipped just a little bit.
And so you have a chance, then, to continually adjust your proportion.
Now, the next thing you want to do is you want to start being able to take off these
things.
Once you don't need those anymore, you want to get those off.
So you never want to go ahead and draw them on there with too much pressure, too dark,
because then they're going to be showing through some of your find tones and values on the
face that you're creating, or whatever the subject might be.
But anyway, there's so much to tell you about, and I get a little bit excited, and it's easy
not to remember one thing or another that can help you.
But the good thing about this is I have this DVD that is available right now.
If you go down to the bottom of your video, you'll see an opportunity to [00:15:01.16]
take an opportunity to get that.
And if you like it, share it with your friends, appreciate that.
But this will help you have a lot more information in there.
You'll have a chance to, again, replay it, go back and review it.
You'll have it all at the time, instead of hoping that you saw the video and absorbed
everything there was to absorb.
So I hope that this little series helps you.
I think it's an exciting opportunity, not only, again, to come up with something very
accurate, but to continue training the way you view your subject and your drawing.
When you're drawing from life, you want to be able to see angles and curves, and have
those little opportunities to realize, 'Well, I think it turns about there.'
So when you see that on your subject, you see that it lines right up with the corner
of a mouth.
You'll always have something that you can compare.
And when we have these vertical and horizontal lines like this, we have an opportunity to
have that, that we can visualize on a subject that even may be at a distance.
Maybe we don't have a photo reference or something, but at least it helps you start looking at
those things.
You'll notice the little personality to a subject.
And, you know, it could be a dog's head.
You know how they like to just kind of cock their head to one side when they're listening
to you, and you want to be able to capture those things, and then have everything continue
to build in relationship to those angles, which are so important, and not have something
become out of perspective or out of proportion.
But the good thing about this method is you have a chance to correct any time you want
to.
If you go through the initial five free lessons, it'll give you a good insight of how to create
your drawing, so that you can always make these alterations and adjustments, if you
just happen to look at it differently later, or maybe you missed something.
And so, appreciate it.
If you viewed these, I hope you enjoyed it and it was useful, and we also have that DVD.
So, see you the next time.
We always appreciate your feedback, so don't forget to let us know how this may have helped
you and share it with your friends.
So, I'll see you the next time.
JEREMY: On behalf of Darrel, myself, and the entire 5-Pencil Method team, we'd like to
say a big thank you for watching this series on drawing with greater accuracy.
And, as Darrel stated in the video, we do have a DVD series that is devoted specifically
to this straight edge and divider method.
And as a way of saying thank you for joining us for this series, we want to offer it to
you at a special discount.
It's five classes, where Darrel takes it step by step, breaks it down to its core, and shows
you the tiny details that are going to make all the difference, as you lay out your drawings.
And because this method is so near and dear to Darrel, and he loves to share it with as
many aspiring artists as possible, we want to make it as accessible as possible.
So, starting right now and lasting for a short time, we're going to offer this DVD series
to you, of five classes, for 50% off.
Plus, we'll be throwing in a free gift, just as an added bonus.
So if you're interesting in learning more about this series and drawing with greater
accuracy, taking your drawing to the next level, we invite you to click on the link
on this page.
You can either click right on the video, or you can click below.
But again, thank you so much for joining us, and we hope to hear from you soon.
Take care.
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