Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to replace the clutch pack on our 2008 Kawasaki KLR650R.
Pretty simple procedure, just involves dropping out the oil and the coolant, pulling the side
cover, and then getting the new plates installed.
So really not that tough, let me go grab a couple of tools and I'll show you how to get
it done.
Alright guys, this is going to be a skill level two.
But just barely a two, so don't be afraid of this one.
Alright, let's go over some of the tools that we're going to need to get this done.
first off, you're going to need a pretty good array of different sockets.
On the quarter inch side, you need to at least have a 6 and an 8.
On the 3/8 side, we need an 8, a 10, a 12, 14, and a 17.
You need a couple different extensions for your ratchets, a couple of decent ratchets,
and the only box end wrench you're going to need is a 12mm right there.
A pretty decent gasket scraper, a pair of pliers, a dead-blow hammer, and it's not absolutely
necessary, but I recommend you have a torque wrench.
So, if you would go look at our diagrams, get an idea of how things are put together,
get your parts list together, get that ordered, so once you have got all of that together
we can get started.
Okay guys, before we start pulling all of this apart, what I want to do is go ahead
and put the fiber plates in a container and go ahead and get them soaking in oil.
What you don't want to do is put together what they call a dry clutch, because the way
these things operate they actually have to be saturated with oil.
Otherwise, they'll overheat and actually burn off this brand new material on these disks.
So, let's get them in this little tray.
We're just going to use some regular Kawasaki four-stroke engine oil, let them soak for
a good 30 minutes.
that ought to give us plenty of a window for them to get soaked and give us time to pull
all of this apart.
Alright guys, before we star pulling all of this apart to get to the clutch plates, we
need to get this outer cover removed.
Then we can go ahead and drain the oil as well as the coolant.
So let me get that out of the way, it's just held in by four 8mm head screws, then we can
start dropping the fluids out of it.
Alright, before we start draining the radiator fluid, let's go ahead and take the cap off
to it'll go ahead and free-flow out of there.
It's on the left side of the front of the tank.
Alright, let's go ahead and get that radiator fluid drained out of there.
Alright, want to make sure that you don't lose your little crush washer.
Make sure that stays with your bolt.
Alright, let's go ahead and put the drain bolt back in.
Let's get the drain bolt pulled.
Go ahead and break it loose and then get our pan under.
Go ahead and loosen up our cap.
And take it out.
Now don't drop your crush washer.
Go ahead and put the plug back in now that that's drained, and don't forget to tighten
it up.
We can start with the actual brake pedal.
Before you remove it, there's a very fine mark on the pivot shaft pointing up to a dot
right here.
I'm going to go ahead and highlight it by putting another black mark on it so we can
get that back in the same place.
And get that brake light switch spring out.
And then we can remove that bolt that's holding on the brake lever itself.
Alright, it's probably not absolutely necessary, but I'm going to go ahead and remove this
footpeg just to give me a little more working room.
Alright, next, let's go ahead and get the clutch cable disconnected.
It's got just a pinch bolt on it.
And back the other side up.
Now, we should be able to bring the cable through on the backside.
Like that.
Alright, just tuck it up out of the way.
Alright, now let's go ahead and get the radiator hoses removed.
Both of these are just 6mm clamps.
Alright, now that we've got our radiator hoses disconnected, let's go ahead and pull the
oil filter cover and get the oil filter out of there.
alright, let's go ahead and get this cover pried off.
There's a pry point right here.
Don't get too carried away with it and snap it off but that'll open it up enough to carefully
get a screwdriver on the edge.
There she comes.
And then slowly work it off.
Alright we've got our oil filter out, let's go ahead and get that impeller housing off.
Probably won't have this extra scaffolding around, I'm going to try to leave it in place
on this particular machine.
I think I can work around it.
Alright, let's see if this thing is going to turn off.
There we go.
Alright and there is a small washer inside of here, so do not lose that one.
Now, let's go ahead and start removing all of these 10mm that are holding our cover on.
When I have this many to pull off, sometimes depending on the machine they'll be different
lengths.
so I usually pick a point like this and start laying them left to right.
that way you're not searching back and forth to try to remember where they went.
Let's see if we can get that thing to pop loose.
I was actually taking the punch tool and I tapped here first, and then I tapped over
here.
Looks like most of the gasket material came off the actual crankcase so it's going to
be on this outer case.
Alright, let's go ahead and take our clutch springs out, and then we'll start removing
the plates.
We want to do this in a criss-cross pattern-- a couple turns at
a time.
Alright, let's start pulling them out.
Notice this last one is actually rotated by one tooth.
so we want to make sure we put it back together like that.
Now if this clutch were in trouble, these metal disks would have blue spots on them
from getting too hot, and your fiber disks would be worn almost flat.
You can see how you've got these little sections through and the little divider in between,
when they're completely worn out, all of that has been scrubbed away.
The other place you want to look for wear is actually on the clutch basket out here.
You can see where they're starting to get a little bit of wear.
But as long as you don't have these huge steps along here, you're fine.
The other place you want to look is on the inner part of the basket, make sure that those
aren't too pronounced as well/ So with that, let's go ahead and get our set
together and start reassembling it.
It's just alternating between the fiber and the metal, all the way out.
And on this particular pack, all the fibers and all the metals are the same part number
and there's no in or out, so they make it really easy .
And this last one?
Remember, it's off by one tooth, so right there.
Got a little pull pin back in place.
Slide that back on.
These springs can go in either direction.
They're actually the same in or out.
I've seen some of your sport bikes where the bottom of the part that goes into the clutch
first, those windings are a little bit closer and they get a little more spread out as you
go to the end.
But these, they're the same all the way through.
So it doesn't matter which direction they go in.
Alright, want to take these back in criss-crossing as you go, in which you bottom them out and
we'll torque them down.
And it's 87 inch-pounds, which translates to 7.2 foot-pounds.
When you're doing one that has this low of a reading, you want to keep your hand off
the extension or the ratchet itself otherwise it'll skew it.
Now here comes the fun part.
Need to go ahead and get the rest of that gasket material scraped off.
So give me a few minutes to do that, and we'll go through the process of reassembling all
of this.
Alright guys, as we're cleaning off all this gasket material, there is a screen right here
in the cases, and now is an excellent opportunity to take a peek at it.
Make sure there's no metal shavings-- but we definitely want to take the opportunity
with this cover off to go ahead and clean that off.
Alright, we've got our gasket material all cleaned off, so let's start reassembling this.
First, let's go ahead and get our dowels back in.
don't forget to get your little screen back in there.
Now let's get our gasket in place.
alright, when we go to put the cover on, looks like everything is lined up pretty well up
top, but we're going to need to push up just a tick on the bottom because this is such
a large gasket.
Before we set that on, let's put a little bit of grease on that impeller shaft.
We want to have our clutch arm pulled back, because see that's with it engaged right there.
We want to bring it back to about right here.
that way, when we put it on, it'll come in and actually grab this pin.
so that's where we need to start it right here.
Yeah, she's got it.
Alright, now, let's start putting our bolts back in.
Remember, we started with this one.
Alright, next let's go ahead and get our impeller back on.
Put a little bit of grease on the back side of this impeller, just on this O-ring right
here.
When you're putting it back on the shaft it's pretty much the exact opposite of the way
we pulled it off.
In the beginning, you want to screw it on, and once it gets past the threads right there
you can go ahead and press it, and you can feel that spring in the back which is part
of that seal.
Now, we can go ahead and get on this outer washer.
And the torque spec on this is 87 inch-pounds.
now to get it to torque, what we need to do is actually put it in gear.
That'll keep it from actually turning.
Now, we can go ahead and put on that outer cover with our new gasket, and the dowel pins
actually stayed with the cover.
The longer one goes to the top right.
There we go.
Now let's get our radiator hoses back on.
Next we can go ahead and get our oil filter back in it.
Want to make sure this smaller section actually goes to the inside.
And your filter is non-directional.
And your arrows should be going up.
Alright, let's go ahead and get our brake lever back on.
That looks like it.
And get our footpeg.
It probably wasn't necessary to take this off, but it seemed to be easier with it out
of the way.
Let's go ahead and get this brake switch spring back in place.
Now, we can go ahead and reconnect the clutch cable.
This one looks a little rough, and I'm actually going to replace this in another video.
But for right now, I'm just going to hook it up as it is.
There she goes.
Now, we can go ahead and grab the cable itself and loop it back into that clutch arm.
Now, we can do our coarse adjustment down here.
You want to get it close but not too tight and then do your fine adjustment up at the
handle.
It's actually pretty much dead on it.
Glad we didn't go any tighter.
Going to loosen that up just a little bit more, so it's go a little bit of play in it.
Now, we can go ahead and get our cover back on.
That pretty much wraps up our clutch install-- well, kinda.
There's still a couple more things that need to happen.
One, we need to refill the oil in the machine.
If you would, reference our oil change video for this particular model and I can show you
how to do that.
Second thing is it needs to be refilled with coolant, and we also have a video for that.
So if you would, find that particular video and I can show you how to get that done.
Well listen , if you need any of the parts that we used to do this clutch replacement,
if you would find us over at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of.
If you have any questions or comments, if you would just leave them in the section below
and I'll do my best to answer them.
And until next time we just want to say thanks for watching.
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